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Editor’s Note — For the latest information on the location of fires, visit the website “Fires near me.” Melbourne (CNN) — Australia wants you to know that it’s not all blackened and charred.The bushfires that burned millions of hectares in the southeast are still burning, but they’re fewer in number and recent storms have drenched debris that might otherwise have gone up in flames.The fires came at the worst time of the year for local tourism operators. The money they make over the summer school holidays keeps them in business for the rest of the year. But this year, instead of juggling reservations, they’re counting the cost of cancellations. And they desperately want tourists to come back.While Australia’s best advertising minds brainstorm their next slogan, we’ve come up with a list of places to go to aid local recovery in the hardest hit areas — Victoria and New South Wales, starting in the Australian capital, Canberra.CanberraCanberra wouldn’t normally be the first stop on the list for incoming international tourists, but it’ll put you in easy reach of towns recovering from the fires.More than 90,000 people visit the Parkes radio telescope each year. The moving parts of the telescope weigh 1,000 tonnes, as much as two Boeing 747s.David McClenaghan, courtesy of CSIROYou’ll find the CSIRO Parkes telescope about 300 kilometers north in NSW. Watch “The Dish” before you go. Batemans Bay, NSW In January, the Boat Shed fish shop would be busy with customers. This year, thousands of tourists were forced to flee in early January as the fires approached.Hilary Whiteman/CNNFrom Canberra drive 1.5 hours south to Batemans Bay. This is where you’ll find Jacob Crooke, the owner of JJ’s at The Marina, who is also an amateur lyricist. After the fires, the restaurateur found himself humming the tune to 70s hit “Baby Come Back” and was inspired to write his own song. The title “Canberra come back,” refers to Australia’s capital city, where the town gets most of its business. Restaurant workers took the mic, while Crooke’s “protégé”, 16-year-old fishmonger Joel Ware, edited the video in between his normal job of peeling prawns. It now has thousands of views on YouTube. Batemans Bay is a favorite weekend escape for locals. It sits at the point where the Clyde River meets the sea. The river, also known by its traditional Aboriginal name of Bhundoo, is one of the purest water sources in Australia. It runs from high in the mountains, through three National Parks and 10 state forests. Water holes along the way are popular with locals and the native platypus, which scoops food from mud at bottom of the river. Owner David Burnett says business is the worst it’s been in his 26 years at the park. “There are people filtering through, but nothing like normal,” he tells CNN Travel. “We didn’t have any fire damage here in the park, but there was enormous damage to the forests around. But that will all regrow. Within three months those blackened tree trunks will be beginning to shoot green.”MoruyaThe view from a South Coast Seaplane flight over Moruya and the New South Wales coast after the fires on Sunday, January 19.Tim Gilbo, South Coast SeaplanesFrom Batemans Bay, drive south down the coast to Moruya. There’s a local airport with regional flights to Sydney and Melbourne. South Coast Seaplanes is back in the air, now that the smoke has cleared. The plane takes off and lands in the Moruya River — the same river used by water bombing aircraft to douse the flames. From the air, you’ll see areas damaged by fire, lush green coastal forests and the New Zealand fur seal colony on nearby Montague Island. Visit Moruya town center for local shops and restaurants — and some seriously good coffee at Alfresco Coffee on Church Street.NaroomaDuring the New Year’s Eve fire, the Narooma Golf Club offered shelter to around 500 people. Cars and caravans were parked on the green.Narooma Golf ClubContinue down the coast to Narooma, where local tourism guides say there’s a 98% chance of seeing a whale during peak season between May and November, when some 30,000 whales make their way along what’s known as the “Humpback Highway.” At Narooma, the view from the cliffs along the coast is extraordinary. Head to a lookout, or play a round at Narooma Golf Club, one of Australia’s most scenic courses. The 3rd hole is known as “Hogan’s Hole” because actor Paul Hogan, of “Crocodile Dundee” fame, once played a shot for a TV ad, hitting the ball over an ocean cliff to the top of a nearby green. The Narooma golf course in greener times — with superb views across the ocean.Brendan James, Golf NSWMore recently, the Narooma Golf Club offered shelter to evacuees from the nearby town of Cobargo on New Year’s Eve. About 500 people spent the night there, with some parking their caravans on the green. “We’re just hoping that people will come back and our February will be busier than it usually is,” says Tracey Vaughan, the club’s assistant manager.CobargoAustralia’s Prime Minister Scott Morrison was heckled by residents living in the bushfire danger zone who were angry with the government’s response to the fires.This small town is now infamous as the place Prime Minister Scott Morrison was heckled in early January for his slow response to the fires. “You’re out, son, you are out,” one local yelled. Many homes were lost in the area and it will take time to rebuild, but the town is open for business. “We’re endeavoring to open as much as we can,” Myers says. The local bakery, coffee shops and cafes are still open, but the town has had to cancel the annual Cobargo Folk Festival, one of the year’s biggest events. Stay the night in Cobargo Hotel or drive to nearby Bermagui on the coast. BegaHome of the famed cheese brand of the same name, Bega is one of the bigger country towns in the southeast, with a population of around 4,000. It has a rich Indigenous history dating back thousands of years, but is now better known as prime dairy country. There are bike tracks through the town to work it off afterwards.Eden Smoke obscures the view across Twofold Bay during the height of the bushfires in early January. Hilary Whiteman/CNNFrom Bega, make your way down to Eden on the coast at Twofold Bay, one of the best places to see the southern migration of humpback whales. Eden’s whale watching season is between August to late October/early November, when the town holds its annual whale festival, which includes a colorful street parade. Other times of the year, there’s fishing, kayaking tours and birdwatching tours. Some of the bush surrounding Eden was burned, but the town itself remained untouched by the recent fires. From nearby Merimbula, take a flight to Melbourne and use that as your base to discover Victoria.Blackwood, VictoriaMartin Street Coffee is considered one of Victoria’s top coffee roasters.Martin Street CoffeeThis tiny town is less than an hour outside Melbourne by car, but it feels like the middle of nowhere.Blackwood Ridge, in Wombat State Forest, is the country’s only totally off-grid nursery and restaurant. All the ingredients are picked fresh from the nursery garden, or are sourced as close to home as possible. Fans of Melbourne’s world famous coffee scene will be relieved to know the famed Martin St. Coffee has a Blackwood branch that serves “Avo Fetta smash.”Clunes The Clunes Booktown Festival takes place every May. Visit VictoriaNot far from Blackwood is Clunes, best known for the annual “Clunes Booktown Festival,” which sees the town’s population swell from fewer than 2,000 people to several thousand in May. The rest of the year, visitors come to see one of the best preserved towns of Victoria’s gold rush era. The main street has appeared in films, including the original 1979 “Mad Max,” starring a young Mel Gibson. Drop into Quigley & Clarke for lunch or dinner in the beautiful 1860s Criterion Hotel. MetungCoastal Metung lies four hours east of Melbourne at the end of the Great Alpine Road.Visit VictoriaFour hours east of Melbourne, you’ll find the seaside town of Metung, which sits on the picturesque Gippsland Lakes. Metung is in Gippsland, a vast area that stretches from east of Melbourne to the New South Wales border. There are many places in Gippsland that haven’t seen flames, but are suffering from name association with fire-ravaged regions. Metung is the place to go for seafood, water sports and fishing. It also has a rich Indigenous cultural history — learn more about it on the Bataluk Cultural Trail.Lakes Entrance The coastal town of Lakes Entrance is in east Victoria. Visit VictoriaFrom Metung, take a boat to Lakes Entrance, a bigger town where you can wander for kilometers along the scenic coast, taking in the views and sea air. Fishing boats regularly pull into the pier, selling freshly-caught fish to the public. Grab an ice cream and pull on a jumper — it may be summer but temperatures are cooler along Australia’s south coast.Wilsons Promotory National Park If you look closely, you can see a boat in the foreground, which shows the immense size of Skull Rock, off the coast of Victoria.Pennicott Wilderness JourneysFor a closer look at Victoria’s stunning south coast, hit the water in an amphibious boat. See the southernmost tip of the Australian mainland and one of the country’s other great monoliths — Skull Rock, also called Cleft Island. This is not a rock you can climb — partly because it’s home to thousands of barking fur seals. For other places to visit in Australia’s fire-hit regions, see the local tourism websites — Visit Victoria and Visit NSW. Locals want international visitors to know they’ll be welcome. In the words of Jacob Crooke’s tune, “Canberra Come Back” — “we are strong, but we just can’t live without you.”

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(CNN) — Some airline brands die forever. Others, it seems, go into suspended animation, waiting to be reborn when the time’s right to take to the skies once again. Which is why, on January 12, a Boeing 767-300ER touched down on the runway at New York’s JFK airport, bringing with it a US brand name that had vanished several years earlier.Miami-based Eastern Airlines’ inaugural flight to New York from the Ecuadorian city of Guayaquil was the first flight to carry the once legendary Eastern name since the failure of the two earlier airlines — the first in 1991 and the second short-lived iteration in 2017.The flight took some in the aviation industry by surprise, not least because they considered Eastern an unlikely brand to come back from the dead, given the original’s troubled final years.The new airline has made upbeat claims that its mission is to provide flights to what it believes are “under-served” areas — that currently includes its service to Guayaquil, Ecuador’s second-largest city, and one to Georgetown, the capital of Guyana.Steve Harfst, Eastern Airlines president and CEO, is optimistic about both the airline and its name, saying “people remember [it].” It’s “a powerful name.” But what exactly do people remember?Is it “the successful story?” asks aviation expert Ahmed Abdelghany. Or the airline’s “failure in the late ’80s?” What’s in a name?Eastern Airlines launched January 12, 2020. From FacebookAbdelghany, associate dean of research at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University in Daytona, Florida, isn’t convinced adopting the name Eastern in any capacity — in spite of a new logo, design and more — is a useful marketing strategy.After all, many US and Latin American travelers probably have never even heard of the airline — much less flown on one of its airplanes.Harfst accepts this reality but isn’t fazed, especially as he insists: “We’re not trying to be the old Eastern.” The original Eastern sprang to life in 1926 as Eastern Air Lines — note that extra space in the name — when the aviation industry was still in its swashbuckling days. Several smaller operations merged to create an operation that initially flew mail routes but evolved into a passenger service before the advent of jet planes. It eventually became a major US domestic aviation player. In contrast to the tiny 2020 version, it grew to command a sizable fleet of aircraft and employed thousands of people.With a heyday that coincided with the 1940s and ’50s golden age of air travel, Eastern could perhaps be viewed through the prism of those fondly recalled times. The troubled yearsBut, says F. Robert van der Linden, curator of air transportation and special purpose aircraft at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC, the myriad ways the carrier was plagued throughout the last 10 to 15 years of its existence are more likely to define its legacy. Linden cites labor troubles and a litany of management issues the company was ultimately unable to resolve. “People don’t necessarily have happy memories of it,” Linden says.Safety-wise, Linden notes, the original Eastern airline was fine. But dogged by profitability and leadership issues, it began to falter just as US carrier Delta was expanding its share of the market.This Curtiss-Wright Condor T-32 passenger transport aircraft used by Eastern Air Lines in 1934. Museum of Flight Foundation/Getty ImagesAs carriers began adding international routes to their offerings, some of the domestic demand which once cemented Eastern Air Lines as a major player in the competitive skies decreased, Abdelghany explains. A brief venture into West Coast flights did nothing to help the struggling airline. Eastern’s second coming in 2015 fared little better, ending just 18 months later and releasing the name for licensing by the new operation.In with the newThe new Eastern’s inaugural flight from Guayaquil to JFK, on the other hand, took off without a hitch. In Ecuador, a ribbon-cutting and announcement signified the launch, but there was little else in the way of ceremony. The apparently minimalist approach to advertising concerns some, including Linden. “You do have to advertise,” he says, adding that he hadn’t even heard about the new airline’s launch until CNN Travel contacted him for comment. “One of the hardest things on this planet is starting a new airline,” Linden says. Razor-thin profit margins, competition and demand that changes by the day are all considerable barriers. Plus, there’s staffing and design and reliability — all key pieces in an airline’s big-picture success.An underwhelming debutThe newly launched Eastern Airlines aims to appeal to budget-conscious passengers who have flexibility in their travel plans.Courtesy Eastern AirlinesSo far, publicity for the new airline has been negative. Eastern CEO Harfst says he’s aware of a harsh criticism following an imperfect debut return flight from JFK to Guayaquil. While the inaugural flight left on time and arrived early, the same could not be said of the reverse route. Delays lasting several hours and a claim that Spanish-speaking travelers had difficulty finding Spanish-speaking flight crew members were among the issues discussed at length in a searing review by travel website The Points Guy.CEO Steve Harfst says Eastern Airlines’ flight attendants are citizens of the markets the airline serves. Courtesy of Eastern AirlinesThe list of grievances also included no online check-in, lack of signage at the airport, no TSA pre-check, no celebratory speech about the launch, significant delays and a lack of communication around them, a stale-looking cabin and untrained flight attendants.Acknowledging the delays and saying there’s work to do, Harfst disputes the claim that Spanish speakers were nowhere to be found. “All of our flight attendants are citizens of the markets we serve,” he said. He insisted Eastern’s service would thrive on demand for a low price point carrier at a time when airlines are limiting baggage allowances and/or charging high fees for additional baggage. Eastern isn’t levying extra charges for its standard luggage allowance.”We’re trying to provide a compelling reason for Ecuadorians to visit New York … We believe our wide body, long-range aircraft has an advantage over the smaller aircrafts,” Harfst says.Despite the airline’s underwhelming debut, marketing manager, Gabi Harfst — the CEO’s daughter — said it would soon be carving a more distinctive identity, telling CNN Travel: “Eastern will unveil its new, modern livery in the next few months.”The airline is also expected to soon announce new connections to South American markets. Prices on its initial route are cheap. A search on ticket prices reveal Eastern is is undercutting rival budget carrier JetBlue by nearly $200.Abdelghany views Eastern’s arrival with skepticism, calling it a “very risky business model” because of tough competition. Linden also warns of tough business hurdles and says the markets Eastern aims to capitalize on aren’t as underserved as its CEO believes. It’s “capitalism” plain and simple, Linden says. “I won’t say it’s cruel, but it can be. Win big, lose big.”

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(CNN) — The concept of pilotless commercial jet flight has been bandied about for years.But while the technology has been there, there’s been little concrete evidence to suggest autonomous flying could ever really get off the ground — until now.Airbus has confirmed one of its test aircraft took off automatically at Toulouse-Blagnac airport in France last December.The European aerospace company conducted a series of successful tests on autopilot last month, with two pilots on standby.According to Airbus, the A350-1000 achieved eight automatic takeoffs over a period of four and a half hours. “While completing alignment on the runway, waiting for clearance from air traffic control, we engaged the autopilot,” Airbus test pilot Captain Yann Beaufils explained in a statement. “We moved the throttle levers to the takeoff setting and we monitored the aircraft. It started to move and accelerate automatically maintaining the runway center line, at the exact rotation speed as entered in the system.”Automatic takeoffAirbus successfully performed the first fully automatic vision-based takeoff at Toulouse-Blagnac airport in France.Courtesy Airbus”The nose of the aircraft began to lift up automatically to take the expected takeoff pitch value and a few seconds later we were airborne.”In an video released by Airbus, one of the pilots is seen with his hands away from the controls as the A350-1000 successfully takes off.This was achieved via new image recognition technology installed directly on the aircraft, rather than an Instrument Landing System (ILS), which sends radio waves up from the runway, providing pilots with vertical and horizontal guidance.Airbus says it also plans to trial automatic vision-based taxi and landing sequences later this year.In fact, the notion has often been cited as a solution for pilot shortages as well as a way to cut costs.At present, commercial flights already land with the assistance of on-board computers, with pilots manually flying the aircraft for just a few minutes on average.However, many have raised concerns about the safety of pilotless planes, particularly after the two Boeing 737 MAX jet crashes of 2019, which have been linked to a software issue.”This is not a matter of technology — it’s a matter of interaction with the regulators, the perception in the traveling public,” Christian Scherer, chief commercial officer for Airbus, told the Associated Press last June when questioned about the possibility of pilotless planes.He added that the Boeing disasters “highlighted and underlined the need for absolute, uncompromising safety in this industry, whether from Airbus, Boeing or any other plane.”Today, it seems Airbus’ position on the subject remains the same. Despite the success of its test flights and subsequent plans for future tests, they say their mission isn’t to “move ahead with autonomy as a target in itself.”While analyzing the potential of such technologies will help to “improve flight operations and overall aircraft performance,” pilots will stay “at the heart of operations,” according to a statement from the company.”Autonomous technologies are paramount to supporting pilots, enabling them to focus less on aircraft operation and more on strategic decision-making and mission management,” it concludes.Current air traffic laws in much of the world require “four-eye-rule” in the cockpit. This means two pilots must be present at all times. If one requires a break, the other must be ready to step in and take their place.Even with these recent developments, it’s safe to say the possibility of the regulations changing is still some way off.

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Dubai’s exclave of Hatta is home to the ecologically diverse Hatta Mountain Conservation Reserve.

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(CNN) — The cuisine of Egypt has always been underrated. Although seldom named among the great food cultures of the Mediterranean or Middle East, the flavors found along the Nile are just as tasty — and often more intriguing — than the traditional cooking of Lebanon, Turkey or Greece.Egyptian cuisine may look similar to those from other countries in the Middle East, but often with unique twists and flavors.Emeco Travel-ETPBDuring the centuries that followed, local food assumed the ingredients and cooking methods of all those who tramped across Egypt — Greeks and Romans, Arabs and Ottomans, French and British. “Much of the cuisine in Egypt is similar to those from other countries in the Middle East,” says Dyna Eldaief, author of “The Taste of Egypt: Home Cooking” from the Middle East and the soon-to-be-publshed “Egyptian Flavors: 50 Recipes.”What sets Egyptian cooking apart is the fact that these dishes are often made with different ingredients and flavors. It’s believed that falafel originated in Egypt.Emeco Travel-ETPB”A notable example is falafel. Now eaten throughout the Western world as well, it’s often made with chickpeas. In Egypt it’s common to find falafel made purely from dried broad beans. It has more moisture and a richer green color inside thanks to the addition of fresh parsley, spring onion and leek.”And it’s still possible to sample dishes served in ancient days. “One of Egypt’s national dishes is molokhiya soup,” says Eldaief. “The dish is said to be depicted on tomb paintings as a meal good enough only for Pharaoh. Over the centuries it has become popular throughout Egypt and is common in households as well as traditional Egyptian restaurants.”Egyptians have long thought their food is underrated compared to other Middle Eastern cuisines. Based on the popularity of her books, culinary demonstrations and cruise ship tastings, Eldaief thinks the tide may have turned. “I agree that Egyptian cuisine has not been embraced as other cuisines are. But I certainly do feel its time to shine will come around, as it slowly becomes more and more accessible.” Read on to find out more about some of Egypt’s amazing array of taste treats and restaurants that serve these dishes when you travel there. ShakshoukaFavorite egg dish in Egypt?Emeco Travel-ETPBAlexandria is a hotbed of this yummy breakfast dish, an ensemble of poached eggs, tomato sauce, peppers and garlic best served in a breezy waterfront cafe or hotel balcony overlooking the Mediterranean. Where to eat: Balady Gourmet, 33 Albert El Awal Street, Semouha, Alexandria.MolokhiyaThis green soup derives its distinctive color from finally diced mallow leaves cooked in some kind of meat or seafood broth and flavored with a variety of spices including coriander and garlic. Often served with rice. Where to eat: Fasahet Somaya, 10 Hoda Shaarawy, Bab Al Louq, Abdeen, Cairo. FattahA favorite dishes in Nubia, fattah is often served during special family occasions as well as both Muslim and Christian holidays but can now be found on restaurant menus throughout Upper Egypt. Rice, beef, eggs and fried bread are the main ingredients of this stew-like dish. KebdaGrilled kebda, or liver, can be served in sandwiches or on its own as a starter or main dish.Emeco Travel-ETPBGrilled liver (chicken or beef) is served several different ways in Egypt — as the main ingredient of sandwiches or on its own as a starter or main dish. The Alexandrian style (kebda eskandarani) can be flavored with numerous spices and powders, with tahini or hummus dip, balady bread, fried or grilled cheese, and pickles as possible side dishes.Where to eat: Studio Misr outdoor cafes on Zamalek Island or Al Azhar Park in Cairo. MahshiEggplant, bell pepper, zucchini squash, cabbage, tomato or grape leaves stuffed with mince meat and rice, seasoned with sundry spices and often cooked in lamb, beef or chicken broth with lemon juice. Dyna Eldaief says that stuffed cabbage (mahshi wara enab) is one of her all-time favorite Egyptian dishes.Ta’ameya (Falafel)Although the falafel is found throughout the eastern Mediterranean and Middle East, many gourmands declare that the best are found in Egypt, especially the restaurants, cafes and street stalls of Cairo. The deep fried balls — made with broad beans in Egypt but chickpeas elsewhere in the region — ta’ameya (to use its Egyptian name) was most likely born in ancient Egypt.KosharyKoshary, a carb-packed comfort food for winter.Emeco Travel-ETPBOne of Egypt’s most popular dishes is a carb-packed combination of macaroni, rice and beans flavored with tomatoes, onions, garlic and whatever else the chef feels like tossing in. Topped off with a tangy sauce, koshary is considered both vegetarian and vegan if prepared with vegetable oil. Where to eat: Saraya Restaurant at the Old Cataract Hotel in Aswan or one of the 10 branches of Koshary Sayed Hanafi in Cairo.Baba GhanoujThis traditional dip is made from mashed grilled eggplant flavored with parsley, cumin, and lemon juice, as well as salt and pepper. Where to eat: Abou el Sid restaurants in Alexandria or Cairo. SamakSamak is the Egyptian word for “fish.” Given the fact the country is wedged between the Mediterranean and Red seas, you find seafood prepared all sorts of different ways in Egypt’s many coastal towns. Among the more popular restaurant fishes is denise (sea bream). GebnaThe creamy gebna (white cheese) and sweet watermelon are one of the best summer food combos.Emeco Travel-ETPBOne of the most surprising things about Egyptian cuisine is the variety of cheese, a tradition that stretches back to pharaonic times. One of the nation’s favorite summer snacks is gebna we bateekh, a cooling combination of white cheese and watermelon. Where to eat: Many Egyptian restaurants serve cheese as part of their meze (small dish) plates or starters. KonafaEgypt flaunts an amazing array of desserts and sweet snacks. Yet a konafa is probably the most beloved. The dish revolves around thin, noodle-like pastry soaked in syrup, stuffed with creamy cheese and often topped with nuts. Shai (Tea)from tearooms and truck stops to souvenir stores, felucca sailboats and corporate boardrooms, Egypt’s national drink is found just about everywhere. Served with a copious amount of sugar, there are two basic varieties — golden koshary tea in the north (often served with mint) and dark saiidi tea in the south — as well as a wide variety of herbal teas. JuicesIn a country that lies on the edge of the Sahara, staying cool and hydrated has always been huge consideration. And over the millennia, Egypt has devised a wide range of fruit, flower and bean drinks to accomplish that task. Among its many exotic libations are tamarind, carob, doam, hibiscus and orchid juices. Where to drink: City Drink (two locations) in Cairo, Solaih Nubian Restaurant in Aswan, or Sofra Restaurant in Luxor.

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(CNN) — Amsterdam’s De Wallen red-light district has long been one of the city’s most provocative neighborhoods thanks to its notorious window brothels.But the historic area has become something of a spectacle in recent years thanks to a dramatic rise in tourists to the Dutch capital in recent years.As a result, the area is undergoing a major overhaul in a bid to protect sex workers from degrading conditions and reduce the impact of mass tourism. The municipality of Amsterdam, one of many destinations currently tackling the issue of overtourism, has also teamed up with local residents to launch a campaign targeted at the millions of visitors who turn up each year. “We Live Here” is part of Amsterdam’s “Enjoy and Respect” campaign, which aims to combat unruly behavior such as urinating in the streets or canals, littering, drunkenness and loud noise.But what’s it actually like to live in a neighborhood synonymous with sex shops and drunken tourists?Here, six red-light district residents tell CNN Travel how they cope with the excessive noise, huge crowds and unruly behavior.’We learned karate to defend ourselves’Martine Groen is in favor of moving the red-light district to an area away from the city center.Katja BrokkeMartine Groen, 70, has lived in a canal house on Oudezijds Achterburgwal for many years.I’ve lived in the red-light district since 1979 and started off in a small canal house. When my second child was born it [the house] became too small and we had to move.Me and five others bought a big building, which was originally built in 1450, on the canal Oudezijds Achterburgwal.It was a dump, but we cleaned it up together. In those days the neighborhood was extremely unsafe, with a lot of heroin junkies and dealers around.So we, including the children, all went to learn karate to defend ourselves. Today, only me and the neighbor above me are left from that original group.Now we experience a lot of nuisance from loud tourists. It started around six years ago. ‘I avoid the neighborhood at night’I think they should just put the red-light district right on Schiphol Airport. They can put the girls over there. It’s the only thing those tourists come here for anyway.I really hate drunken Englishmen. It’s like King’s Day, a holiday we celebrate in the Netherlands each April, is happening every night. You can’t walk the streets in a normal manner because of the crowds. I avoid the neighborhood at night. It’s not fun anymore.Why don’t I move? Because I love it. Why should I leave? I love my house, and it’s close to everything. It’s a small area, so I can get out quickly and escape from the crowds.In the old days, junkies were walking around. It was unsafe, but we were together. We looked out for each other and kept our eyes on the streets. Now we all experience the same nuisances and we can’t do anything about it.I am very pleased with the ban on tours. But we are not heard by the municipality. Besides, what can they do? You can’t do much against mass tourism.Well, I guess they could make a red-light district amusement park. Everybody feels it has to change, but nobody knows how.’More police would help.’De Wallen resident Sascha Kok helps to run bookshop Antiquariaat A. Kok & Zn. B.V, which her family owns.Katja BrokkeSascha Kok, 49, moved to the area as an adult after visiting regularly in her younger years and is now raising her son in the neighborhood. I grew up outside of the city, but came here often as a child, as our family business, antiquarian bookshop Antiquariaat A. Kok & Zn. B.V, is based in the area.When I was younger, I couldn’t walk to Nieuwmarkt Square [located next to the red-light district]. Now my 6-year-old son can play on the streets, and there’s less drug-related nuisances. The neighborhood has changed for the better, but the number of visitors has increased. The tourists tend to concentrate in a very small area. The larger groups are the worst — they don’t care that people live here.More police would help. But the Amsterdam police department is struggling with major staff shortages. Changing the licensing policies for stores could also help to change the face of the red-light district.’My son will see it all’The area is undergoing a major overhaul in a bid to protect sex workers and lessen the impact of mass tourism.PixabayAt the moment there are mostly shops selling waffles and marijuana seeds and tourist supermarkets with flashy lights. Closing some of the coffee shops did help a little though. Closing the windows [there are around 330 window brothels in De Wallen] wouldn’t make a difference. It would only move the activities to another area. I don’t mind them [the sex workers] being here. It helps to regulate prostitution. Until recently my son never paid any attention to the women. But the other day he asked why they have almost no clothes on. I explained to him this is a way they can make some money. Children are very flexible. By growing up here, he’ll see it all at a young age, so he’ll be less curious about the unknown when he gets older.For example, I was never attracted to drugs because I was visiting the neighborhood regularly when I was young. I saw the heroin junkies, I saw what drugs can do to you.’It’s like a small village’Willemijn Tybout, 41, and Justus Dolleman, 52, enjoy the excitiment of the area.Katja Brokke Long-term residents Willemijn Tybout, 41, and Justus Dolleman, 52, say there’s a strong solidarity between locals.Justus: It has always been busy here and I love it. I like the buzz of the streets. I moved to the red-light district as a student in 1988, when I was 18. At that time, people were using drugs openly and there were a lot of dealers walking around. I never felt unsafe though.I knew the places to avoid and hours to avoid. Nowadays there are more tourists and some make a mess. Luckily the mayor hung up signs to ask the tourists to behave.Willemijn: It’s a clear signal. Tourists used to think anything goes here. I think the ‘We Live Here’ campaign is also great. It shows that there are local people here too. Tourists are more than welcome, but they have to behave. I know there are plans to close all windows in this area. The women aren’t making a lot of money now anyway. People only come here to watch them and don’t actually pay to visit them. The municipality of Amsterdam has teamed up with local residents to launch the “We Live Here” campaign.Pixabay/Creative CommonsWe call it ‘aapjes kijken’: watching monkeys. It became too busy for the men who did use to visit the sex workers, so what’s the point of in the women being here?Justus: I tried to live in other parts of Amsterdam for about two years, but it was so boring. I came back here as soon as possible. I don’t experience any inconvenience. My bike never gets stolen and I’m in bed when there are dealers hanging around selling drugs.Willemijn: I experience more inconvenience from the hectic life outside than Justus. My youngest daughter, who’s seven, likes to ride her bike to swimming classes. Before we even arrive, I’ve had three heart attacks because of people not paying attention to the traffic. I get very annoyed by the hordes of tourists. I also hate that locals sometimes deliberately cause collisions with their bikes, just to scare them [tourists]. Sometimes I look for other houses, but it’s all so expensive and small. It’s then that I really appreciate what we have here.Justus: We interact with the neighbors a lot. We have dinners together and see each other almost daily at school and the playground. It’s like living in a small village with a high level of solidarity. In the end, everyone stays here, whether they’re complaining or not.’There’s something about this place’Paul van Egmond, 51, loves living in the neighborhood, but has concerns about the behavior of some tourists.Katja BrokkePaul van Egmond, 51, relocated to the red-light district 15 years ago and has never looked back.I used to live in Haarlem [a city located close to Amsterdam] which I found somewhat boring. When I had the chance to buy an apartment in Oudezijds Achterburgwal, in the center of the red-light district, I didn’t hesitate. I didn’t even think about the maintenance involved in owning a very old house. I moved here 15 years ago, and my daughter was born seven years ago. She knows all the girls [sex workers] who work here and sees them as friends. If you don’t make an issue out of it, it will not be an issue for children.I know all of my neighbors, along with the prostitutes and window operators, and the owners of the old pubs and the sex stores. They are all friendly people. I especially like the dynamics of the early morning, when everybody is busy starting their day and the streets are deserted. There’s something about this place, I can’t really explain. It’s so beautiful, especially when the sun is out. It has a lot of hidden places and it attracts both dark and light. I don’t experience any inconvenience.’It’s dangerously busy in some spots'”I know all my neighbors, along with the prostitutes and window operators” says Egmond. “They are all friendly.”Getty Images/Sylvain SonnetIn my opinion, there are no problems in the red-light district. Not like some of the others are saying. Of course it’s busy here, it always has been. I can only speak for myself, but I think the major issue is not the numbers, but the behavior of some of the tourists. But on Friday and Saturday evenings, it’s dangerously busy in some spots. If there’s a fire, the fire brigade can’t get through. I think they need to close the area at that point.I regularly email the municipality with advice, but I never got any response. It seems like they don’t care. I think if you inform visitors [about rules and codes of conduct] while they’re on the airplane, or via a text message as soon as they arrive in the city, they would be more aware. They would know that it’s forbidden to photograph sex workers and they’re not allowed to drink alcohol on the streets. Inform them about the fines, which I think the authorities need to raise. We also need more enforcement on the streets. If we had hosts — not police — walking around, it would work more effectively.’The campaign has had no effect’Rachel Bonnewell and her husband say tourists just “form part of the backdrop” of live in the red-light district.Katja BrokkeI have never lived in a neighborhood or street in Amsterdam where I know so many of my neighbors.The locals mostly focus on each other and are very mindful when it comes to keeping the street a livable space. The tourists just form part of the backdrop of our daily life.People do try to get away when the really busy weeks are happening, like King’s Day and New Year’s. It just gets too busy and dirty.From my experience, the ‘We Live Here’ campaign has had no effect. As well as the large signs claiming 100 euro fines for drinking in the streets or littering. They just make the area look less beautiful.There are no police on the street enforcing the warnings and most of the signs are in Dutch. It’s completely useless. Moreover they were installed mid-April when the Aprilfeesten (a local run outdoor festival) on Nieuwmarkt Square starts and King’s Day is around the corner. During those festivities everyone is generally drinking and eating on the streets and making a mess. Why would a tourist behave any differently?Most of the time I like living here. Previously some tourists have been scammed into thinking our home was an Airbnb property. The picture of our place looked either like a New York loft or a Swiss chalet. The first time it happened, it was in the late evening and a family with three kids rang the bell.We were all a bit in shock and we felt so bad for them. We ended up calling around and found them a place to stay for the weekend. But now, if it happens, we just answer the door with: ‘No, sorry. No Airbnb here.’Katja Brokke is a freelance journalist and editor from Amsterdam specializing in food, travel and media. Follow her on Twitter at @KatjaBrokke

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