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In a statement, the House of Commons — which is housed in an adjoining part of the same building — said remnants from Nazi Germany’s bombing campaign in London were discovered along with pollution and asbestos in the Elizabeth Tower — more commonly known by the name of its iconic clock.The 19th century Gothic building has been wrapped in scaffolding since 2017, and the cost of restorations will now rise from £61.1m to £79.7m ($79.7m to $104m). Plans are still on track to complete the restoration in 2021, the statement said.Decay and damage to “hundreds of intricate carvings,” an “extensive use” of toxic lead paint and broken glass in the clock dials were also discovered, and the commission managing the project said an additional clock expert was also needed.The full scale of structural problems “was only revealed once the project team was able to begin intrusive surveys for the first time ever on the 177-year-old structure,” it added.But the rising costs could anger critics of the lengthy and expensive renewal program set to get underway at the Houses of Parliament over the next decade.”It is very frustrating to learn that the Elizabeth Tower project requires yet more funding, having agreed an extra £32m in 2017,” a spokesperson for the House of Commons Commission said in the statement.”We have requested more detailed information about the lessons learned from this experience — as well as assurances that more robust estimates are prepared for works of this nature in the future.”About 43,000 British civilians were killed during the Blitz between 1940 and 1941, which flattened thousands of buildings and caused major restoration projects across the capital after the war ended.Big Ben — a popular tourist attraction — has been surrounded by scaffolding since 2017. Once works are complete, visitors will be able to use a lift inside the structure. Shortly after the works are finished, a massive, £3.5 billion ($4.5bn) restoration program will get underway to modernize the crumbling and rapidly deteriorating Palace of Westminster, forcing lawmakers to relocate to another building.As a national icon and UNESCO World Heritage Site, its renovation represents a hugely complex operation, and the high costs have been criticized by several MPs.But a report issued in September 2016 by a special joint committee of MPs and members of the House of Lords warned of an “impending crisis” that could not responsibly be ignored.Issues cited include extensive erosion and water damage throughout the palace, with the building’s old pipes and electrics cause for particular concern. Last year, a leak in the House of Commons chamber forced MPs to end their day early.

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Macron made the announcement in the Alpine village of Chamonix after visiting a shrinking glacier located near Mont Blanc. “What we’re seeing with the evolution of the glacier is indisputable proof of the trace of this (global) warming and (climate) imbalance, and essentially of the shift of an entire ecosystem …” Macron said. A landmark 2019 report from the United Nations’ Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) found that nearly all glaciers around the globe are shrinking. In addition to the threats posed by climate change, the Mont Blanc area also faces pressures from heavy traffic from tourists and climbers. Last year, a local decree during the busy summer climbing season banned climbers who didn’t book a room in one of three hotels to limit overcrowding. Macron’s visit comes after the mayor of the town of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains urged the president in an open letter to take action against climbers who pollute the mountain with waste, according to CNN affiliate BFM. “Mr. President, taking care of the forests in the Amazon is very good. Ignoring what is happening on Mont Blanc and letting disrespect continue is not tolerable,” mayor Jean-Marc Peillex wrote in an open letter to Macron last September, referring to the “Group of Seven’s” pledge of millions of dollars to help combat fires in the Amazon rainforest. Other alpine towns in France are also feeling the effects of global warming. Just last week, a resort in the central Pyrenees was forced to close to visitors indefinitely because of insufficient snow, BFM reported. In his speech, Macron also announced the creation of the French Office of Biodiversity, an agency that protect threatened environments and biodiversity. “2020 will be a decisive year for biodiversity,” Macron said. “It’s the year in which we could begin to change things if we succeed in building the framework for national and international action and start those deep transformations.” The French government is also taking steps to reduce the environmental impact of the country’s 2.4 million public servants. Starting in July, the government will give 200 euros to state and civil employees that either bike or carpool to work. The government will also transition to electric and hybrid cars for official uses and will eliminate single-use plastic in all its offices.

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(CNN) — Maybe you’d choose the white sands and turquoise waters of a deserted tropical beach. Perhaps it’s the lure of iconic cultural cities such as Paris, Venice or Istanbul. Then again, the call of the wild from a safari is a pretty special way to spend time with your beloved.Here are 13 places where the landscapes and architecture are timeless, the views rightly famous — and the romance for Valentine’s Day or any time of year is guaranteed:The MaldivesAlways hovering near the top of romantic bucket lists comes the breathtaking Indian Ocean nation of the Maldives. Sitting 600 miles southwest of India, the collection of 26 atolls boasts some of the planet’s dreamiest islands, beaches, water and marine life.Visitors can choose from more than 100 resorts, most of which are reached by speedboat or seaplane. One of the most decadent resorts in the country, Soneva Jani is made up of two dozen overwater villas on the uninhabited island of Medhufaru.Another resort, Jumeirah Vittaveli, lies just 20 minutes in a motorized catamaran from the country’s international airport. It offers a traditional Maldivian welcome, world-class water sports, diving and beaches.Jumeirah’s Private Ocean Retreats boast a butler, overwater hammock, the longest villa waterslide in the country at 23 meters (75 feet) — but most of all, a glass-bottomed sunken lounge that lets you enjoy stunning aquatic life without leaving the comfort of your sofa.Jumeirah Vittaveli, Bolifushi Island, South Male Atoll, Republic of Maldives; +960 664 2020Quebec City, CanadaLe Château Frontenac is the ultimate romantic stay in Quebec City.Jeff Frenette Photography/Quebec City TourismIt’s French. It’s historic. It has a spectacular setting along and above the majestic St. Lawrence River. In other words, Quebec City is oozing with l’amour.Stroll the Upper and Lower Towns of the old city center and soak in European-style charm. Duck into boutiques and check out the many incredible restaurants with food you won’t even find in France.If you and your partner brave the cold of February, the Quebec Winter Carnival will heat things up for you with parades, snow sculpture contests and more.Looking for a place to stay? Look no further than the signature symbol of the entire city. Le Château Frontenac, which opened in 1893, is ideally located in Upper Town.Tuscany, ItalyWine in the countryside makes Tuscany an ideal retreat for two.Courtesy Castello di AmaIf there’s one thing more romantic than an escape in the hills of Tuscany, it’s when your home base is called “The Castle of Love.” Castello di Ama is in Chianti, meaning that their on-property vineyards also offer wines that rank amongst the world’s best.Guests take their choice from one of five luxury suites in the 18th-century Villa Ricucci. What’s more, pieces from renowned contemporary artists such as Anish Kapoor dot the property.Magical sunsets over cypress-lined hillsides and brilliant culinary discoveries are some of the region’s distractions, but with beautiful rooms in an historic property and a lifetime’s supply of world-class wine, the question is why would you even consider leaving the castle?Castello di Ama, Località Ama, 55, 53013 Gaiole In Chianti SI, Italy; +39 0577/746031Hawaii Molokai has breathtaking Hawaiian scenery and quiet accommodation.ShutterstockHawaii is already known as one of the world’s most popular honeymoon destinations, so it’s no surprise that love is in the air. Countless landscapes of postcard-perfect beaches, waterfalls, mountains and more serve as the backdrop to your amorous and intimate escape.Visitors are spoiled for choice. Maybe it’s an early start to watch the sunrise from atop Maui’s Haleakala Crater before a massage for two in one of Wailea’s swish resorts. Surfing lessons for couples are available in a number of spots, but few destinations are as iconic as Waikiki Beach in Honolulu.To really get away from it all, sleepy Molokai offers cozy guesthouses and gentle retail therapy, before staying up to catch the incredible night time skies and stargaze. For water babies, marine sanctuaries abound across the 50th state with incredible snorkeling and diving opportunities.Charleston, South CarolinaHistoric Charleston is one of the United States’ most charming cities.Courtesy Explore CharlestonCharleston is a sultry city where a dose of true Southern charm goes a long way toward upping the romance factor. Quaint cobblestone streets, waterside dinners and carriage rides through the historic center keep visitors engaged in town.For flower fans, nearby Magnolia Plantation is home to the United States’ oldest public gardens, sharing its blooms with visitors since 1870, while Middleton Place has more than 100 acres of trails, gardens and animals.The 400-year-old Angel Oak Tree on nearby Johns Island is a prime spot for a romantic afternoon, before maybe taking a sunset or moonlit cruise. Thanks to the city’s dynamic and exciting dining scene, you can be sure of finding a table for two to toast one another.BotswanaBotswana is an increasingly popular safari destination.Monirul Bhuiyan/AFP/Getty ImagesA safari has to be one of the most romantic escapes going thanks to the call of the wild, the stunning sunsets, the solitude and the starry skies. The landlocked southern African country of Botswana is growing in popularity, not least because of its remarkable game watching opportunities.One option is Jack’s Camp, featuring 10 stylish canvas tents fitted out in 1940s designs. That means Persian rugs, brass and mahogany, as well as all modern creature comforts, despite the remote location. Currently undergoing refurbishment, the camp is set to reopen in May 2020. In the interim, Jack’s Migration Camp will offer very similar tented accommodation.When you’re finished wildlife watching, the combination of luxury and serenity should ensure that romance is renewed in style. Paris, FrancePlace des Vosges is a peaceful spot for a leisurely stroll.Jean-Pierre Muller/AFP/Getty ImagesIf asked to name one of the world’s most romantic cities, the French capital would be the first name on many lips. Of course there are iconic sights and monuments such as the Eiffel Tower, the artist-filled streets of Montmartre or the galleries of the Louvre.But it’s also worth seeking out other lesser-known and visited spots. Musée de la Vie Romantique is a museum dedicated to 19th-century romantics in art, music and literature, complete with a secret garden, while the Musée Marmottan boasts the largest Monet collection in the world and is far less crowded than the better-known museums.Most of all, a trip to Paris is about wandering the streets with your beloved, getting happily lost in the maze of café- and restaurant-filled lanes and courtyards of districts such as the Latin Quarter or the Marais, the latter with its beautiful and elegant square, Place des Vosges.Istanbul, TurkeyA Turkish cultural powerhouse, Istanbul is also a prime spot for a romantic getaway. The Blue Mosque, above, is nothing less than inspirational.Courtesy Royal Seven Seas CruisesThe strategic and beautiful setting of modern-day Istanbul has been luring people for centuries — after all, it was so appealing that Emperor Constantine the Great moved the Roman Empire’s capital to there in 330 AD. And the history and romance has been going on ever since.You can explore the fabled Grand Bazaar and stunning sights such as the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace. The fabled Bosphorus, the stretch of water linking Europe and Asia, is another draw.Get swept away with the past when you stay in the very affordable Régie Ottoman. It’s set in a renovated Ottoman building that’s around 150 years old. But you don’t go without modern amenities here. Take a lovely stroll to the historic Sultanahmet area, just 10 minutes away.Régie Ottoman: Hobyar, Mimar Vedat Sk. No:5, 34112 Sirkeci /Fatih, Istanbul, Turkey: +90 212 520 60 20Hoi An, Vietnam The old town area of Hoi An, lit with glowing lanternsDale de la Rey/AFP/Getty ImagesThe central Vietnamese coastal town of Hoi An may have rocketed in popularity in recent years, but even increased visitor numbers can’t detract from the undeniably quaint and romantic feel of this former trading port.The old town is a warren of ancient temples, houses and stores built around a number of canals. Gently humped pedestrian bridges let you wander hand in hand, with hundreds of multicolored lanterns above you swaying in the coastal breezes. Paper lanterns of another kind can also be lit and sent soaring skyward, along with a special message written with your valentine.After strolling, enjoy some of the town’s rightly famous foods, notably the banh mi baguette sandwiches that counted Anthony Bourdain as one of their biggest fans. His photo features prominently in a number of the spots he frequented.Bora Bora, French PolynesiaBora Bora is one of the world’s great honeymoon locations.Tahiti TourismeA destination renowned for its sense of escape and privacy is the Pacific Ocean idyll of Bora Bora in French Polynesia, an hour’s flight north of Tahiti.Known as the “Jewel of the South Seas,” its seclusion gives the feel of a private oasis, especially in one of the overwater bungalows that have become a popular feature of the seriously swish resorts. Some even offer room service that is delivered by an outrigger canoe.Whether you choose to kick back in the spa, shop in local villages or even skydive for the more adventurous, it’s clear that the pace of life is the definition of relaxed. The only challenge for you and your valentine? Choosing which turquoise lagoon to hit next.Venice, Italy Gondoliers at sunset: a recipe for romance.ShutterstockWhile it’s true that visitor numbers make it unlikely you’ll ever get much personal downtime along Venice’s canals, some options can guarantee your own private slice of la dolce vita.Belmond Hotel Cipriani sits on Giudecca Island, just a five-minute ride in an elegant private wooden launch from St. Mark’s Square, but it’s a destination that takes you light years away from the crowds. Timeless elegance and charm abound in an atmosphere of vintage glamor, beloved by fans including George and Amal Clooney.Sip on a Bellini — invented there — as you take in 270-degree views over the water toward the Doge’s Palace and Venice’s iconic silhouette. Michelin-starred cuisine and a world-class spa complete the sophisticated and ultra-exclusive picture of romance.Buenos Aires, ArgentinaTango in Buenos Aires is a dance for romance.ShutterstockAnother iconic destination for star-crossed lovers comes in the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires, where a mix of tango, rose gardens and riverfront dining make for an alluring destination with few rivals.The city’s most famous architecture dates from the elegant late 19th and early 20th century Belle Époque, and parks are another big draw. But for romance, nowhere can top Paseo El Rosedal. As its name suggests, it’s a garden with 93 varieties of roses, walkways and benches for you and your beloved to sit a while or maybe enjoy a picnic.The Puerto Madero neighborhood is a good choice for dinner thanks to its Río de la Plata waterfront restaurants, before late nights featuring live music and a tango show — or maybe a dance of your own at one of the countless tango gatherings, known as milongas.Kyoto, JapanCherry blossoms provide a delicate canopy for peaceful evenings in Kyoto.Courtesy Hoshino ResortsThe elegant former Japanese capital of Kyoto is a hugely popular choice for amorous visitors thanks to its beguiling mix of sites, history, culture, cuisine and always-courteous approach to guests.A number of small streams flow through the old town, making for perfect photo opportunities, especially in cherry blossom season.On the outskirts of the city lies the remarkable and otherworldly Arashiyama towering bamboo forest. The popular stop is just a short hop from Hoshinoya Kyoto, a luxurious resort on a quiet riverbank that can only be reached in the property’s elegant wooden launch. Romantic destinations won’t ever get much more serene.This story was first published in February 2019 and updated in January 2020. CNN’s Forrest Brown contributed new material for the update.

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This little rescue got quite a treat after the Australian Defense Force saved it from fires burning on Australia’s Kangaroo Island.

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(CNN) — Every day, Pacer trains trundle through some of the most beautiful scenery in northern England, across rolling dales and moody moorlands, before pulling up in the great cities of the region: Manchester, Leeds and Sheffield.But while the routes they take are often spectacular, these trains are not. For those that use them, they have become a byword for commuter discomfort and chronic lateness. Introduced in the early 1980s as a hastily cobbled together stop-gap until more practical trains could be brought in, they should’ve been phased out years ago. Incredibly, 40 years of hard service down the line, they’re still running.Ironically, it seems that after creating the first ever locomotives and pioneering the incredible high speed engines of the steam age, the United Kingdom can’t seem to rid itself of what many no doubt believe is one of the world’s worst trains.While some rail enthusiasts retain a certain affection for these unlikely survivors, for people living in the north of England, they’ve become a symbol of decades of underinvestment in the local transport infrastructure, and of a widening economic north-south divide in the UK. The complaints are legion. Social media is awash with tales of train roofs leaking, faulty heating and carriages filling up with noxious diesel fumes from the aging engines which power them.”When you see the depressing sight of an ancient Pacer come rocking from side to side into a station at about 10 mph, usually running late, your conclusion is that the only rightful place for them is in a railway museum,” says David Parkin, a retired teacher.Parkin has grown so tired of using them that he now drives to his nearest Manchester tram stop, some 12 miles away, rather than traveling via local train station in the village of Marsden in West Yorkshire.The train that used to be a busPacers were seen as a cheap solution to adding rail capacity in the 1980s.ShutterstockIf a Pacer looks like a bus that’s been converted into a train, that’s because that’s exactly what it is. Each carriage consists of the body of a bus on top of a simple train frame. Until recently many Pacers had the same somewhat uncomfortable bench seats found on British-built Leyland buses that plied routes in this region over 40 years ago.”They are a cheap solution and to some extent they feel cheap,” says Mark Smith, founder and editor of rail travel website The Man In Seat 61.”Unlike most trains they haven’t got eight wheels, they’ve got a four-wheel underframe. That gives them the name ‘nodding donkeys’, because as they go over the rail joints, you feel it. Four wheel carriages like Pacers end up being slightly bumpy.” Pacers, which tend to run with just two carriages, were introduced to northern England (as well as parts of Wales), rather than in the busier areas around London and southeast England, because of capacity, explains Smith.”Seventy percent of rail travel in the UK is in London and the southeast,” he says. “A two car Pacer wouldn’t be able to cope with the sheer loads of the London commuter network.”Therefore, introducing diesel-powered units in the south, where most lines had been electrified, did not make sense. Still going, 40 years onThe original Pacers had uncomfortable bus-style bench seats. AlamyIn theory, Pacers are counting down the days until they’re finally taken off the rails. But given that’s a promise that has been repeatedly broken over the past two decades, no one is holding their breath. In October 2019, Northern Rail, a regional franchise operating the Pacers, announced it was blowing an end of year deadline to finally kill off the unpopular trains. While some have finally been replaced, many are expected to keep rolling well into 2020. That announcement, coupled with a botched timetable change and years of late running services, prompted a final surge of outrage. The mayors of Manchester, Leeds and Sheffield united to call for fare reductions on routes that still use Pacers, expressing ‘deep disappointment and frustration’ in a letter to Northern.Then in January, Northern’s German-owned operator, Arriva, was stripped of its franchise, and services were taken under government control — an extraordinary measure for the UK’s free-market supporting Conservative leadership.Like politicians, passengers have little good to say about the experience of using them.”The Pacers are terrible,” says Rob Weatherhead, a digital consultant based in Bolton, Greater Manchester. “Cold, rickety and no room to stand.”John Moorhouse, company secretary at TravelWatch NorthWest, a passenger advocacy group, says that as well as complaints about the rough ride when traveling by Pacer, there are also major issues with the interior too.”They’re very sparse inside,” Moorhouse says. “The seats are very Spartan and at quite high density. The toilet that’s provided is very small and not suitable for disabled people. And latterly they haven’t had anything done to them because they were supposed to be taken out of service, so they’ve just deteriorated in quality.””On one journey we sat outside Wigan Kirkgate not moving for 15 minutes and you could feel the diesel fumes getting into your lungs, making you feel positively nauseous,” says David Parkin. “And this is an experience you’ll get at most of the big northern stations such as Leeds and Manchester Piccadilly.”Beloved by someNice countryside, shame about the trains. Rail Photo/Construction Photography/Avalon/Getty ImagesDespite seemingly widespread dislike for Pacers, rail enthusiasts say that they have actually fulfilled a major purpose.”Some say that by offering a cheap solution they enabled really small regional branch lines to stay open [in the 1980s] — that if they had to have really expensive trains, they might have been under greater pressure to close,” says Mark Smith.It’s a view echoed by John Moorhouse.”At the time there was a threat to rail services and it was said that the Pacers helped to prevent the closures.””There’s also a school of thought that says that some of the Pacers, now that they’ve been refitted with decent seats rather than bus seats, are actually not that bad and on a line with a decent track even the four-wheel frame isn’t that bad,” adds Smith.For many in the north, Pacer trains are indicative of a wider trend, with the region constantly overlooked when it comes to major infrastructure investment. London, which is soon to get an £18.2 billion ($23.7 billion) Crossrail service, always seems to take precedence.The Pacer uses the chassis of a Leyland bus similar to this model from the 1970s. Evening Standard/Hulton Archive/Getty ImagesThat, however, is at least beginning to change. It is claimed that since the introduction of the so-called “northern powerhouse” scheme in 2014 by the then government of former prime minister David Cameron, spending on transport has gone up twice as much in the north as it has in London.”Previous Northern franchises were contracted on a ‘no growth’ basis and there was no opportunity for the operator to introduce new rolling stock,” Alan Chaplin, program director at Northern, told CNN late last year, before Arriva lost its franchise. “When Arriva won the rights to operate the new franchise in 2016, an investment plan of £500 million in brand new trains was agreed.” That investment, explained Chaplin, equates to 101 new trains, built by manufacturer CAF, which will eventually replace all Pacer trains.Even before the 2019 deadline was up, Chaplin said that some would continue to be used, “…to provide planned service provision but all are expected to be out of service by early spring 2020.” ‘No quick fix’Northern’s new trains are scheduled to replace Pacers in 2020.Courtesy NorthernRail Minister Chris Heaton-Harris said in October 2019 that the very last Pacers would come out of service in May 2020.That can’t come soon enough for passengers.Mark Smith, who has ridden the new rolling stock, says users will be pleased when they do eventually get on board the Pacers’ replacement.”They look very swish,” he says. “The north is getting a fleet renewal that is better than anything that has gone before. It’s a shame if attention is diverted onto the odd delay. But there are great things in the pipeline.”John Moorhouse says the new trains are just part of the wider story of regenerating transport in the north.”There’s a lot of latent demand out there, so we think that there’s still going to be a problem with capacity, he says. “We’re still going to need more trains to deal with all the demand that’s there. It’s not going to be a quick fix.”For train fanatics, though, the next few months provide a final opportunity to ride these creaking carriages and feel them rattle along the rails of England’s most beguiling region.

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(CNN) — Taking time off from his Sherlock Holmes mysteries, Arthur Conan Doyle penned a tale about a remote corner of South America where dinosaurs and other colossal creatures stilled roamed the earth.Most readers thought “The Lost World” was entirely fiction. But Conan Doyle’s far-fetched saga was inspired by reports that explorers were bringing back from three small European colonies that border Brazil at the top end of South America: British Guiana, Dutch Guiana and French Guiana.Nowadays they’re the independent nations of Guyana and Suriname, and the French territory of Guyane (French Guiana). For most of the past century — since “The Lost World” was published in 1912 — they’ve been little more than geographical trivia. Cricket legend Clive Lloyd hails from Guyana, and Guyane is famed for its Ariane rocket launches. But for the most part, the region has long flown beneath the radar of global awareness. However, all three are finally stepping out from the shadows as their natural, historical and cultural wonders are discovered by travelers questing new worlds to explore.While there may not be dinosaurs, the Amazon rainforest that covers around 80% of the three countries does harbor very large wildlife: giant river otters and giant anteaters, anacondas that can reach 28 feet (8.5 meters) in length, spiders as big as your hand, and a huge carnivorous river fish called the arapaima that makes piranhas seem like puppy dogs.Giant anteaters roam the Rupununi savannah in Guyana.Joe YogerstThe region also boasts an incredible cultural melting pot. “Guyana” or “Guiana” is an Amerindian word that means “Land of Many Waters.” But given how history unfolded, it could just was easily mean land of many peoples or languages. With English spoken in Guyana, Dutch the lingua franca of Suriname and French the mother tongue in Guyane, they are the only countries in South America were Spanish or Portuguese are not the official language.After two centuries as a Dutch colony, Guyana was handed over to Britain in 1814 at the end of the Napoleonic Wars. The Dutch managed to retain control of an adjacent colony that centered around the Suriname River. Apparently it was 17th-century Italians who first settled the Guyane coast, but it was the French who soon claimed a territory that would one day harbor their most notorious prison. Guyana gained its independence in 1966, Suriname in 1975, while Guyane morphed from French colony to overseas department in 1946 (and later voted against independence from France). But the die had already been cast in terms of their cultural identity and ethnic variety.The colonial empires imported slaves and indentured servants to work the plantations, people from as far away as Java, India and West Africa. Together with the indigenous Amerindians and descendants of European settlers, they comprise one of the world’s most diverse populations. And by extension, one of the most varied culinary destinations.As a lifelong fan of Conan Doyle — and the Jurassic Park stories that his writing inspired — I decided to discover South America’s lost world for myself.Guyana: Rainforest run amokGuyana is home to pristine, primary rainforest.Joe Yogerst”There are only four places left on the planet with pristine, primary rainforest — New Guinea, central Africa, part of the Brazilian Amazon and here in Guyana,” British adventure guide Ian Craddock tells me over drinks in Georgetown, the coastal capital city.The next morning I’m on a small plane headed into that huge green wilderness. First stop: Kaieteur Falls. Although largely unknown outside Guyana, it’s actually the world’s largest single-drop waterfall — 741 feet (226 meters) without interruption. Twice as tall as Victoria Falls and more than four times higher than Niagara.There’s a double rainbow over the falls as I peer into the gorge from the edge of a lofty rock ledge near the national park lodge and landing strip. I’m not usually acrophobic, but it’s an awful long way down. Away from the falls, the jungle is filled with marvelous creatures like the golden tree frog and the cock-of-the-rock bird with its bright red feathers.Guyana’s Amazon region isn’t just trees. There are also vast tropical savannahs like the Rupununi, my next stop in the journey south. An early morning drive from Waikin Lodge ends with my first sighting of a giant anteater, a massive creature with immense claws that’s said to be the only animal that can take on (and defeat) a jaguar. A black caiman makes its way on the Mapari River.Joe YogerstReaching Yupukari, an indigenous settlement on the southern edge of the Rupununi, I rendezvous with Ashley Holland, a veteran wildlife guide who’s leading a small group of us up the Mapari River. There’s plenty to see along the way: black caiman (an alligator relative) snoozing on the sandy banks, giant river otters giving us a quick look-see before disappearing into the depths again, and three-foot (one-meter) electric eels that allegedly emit enough juice to electrocute a person. (Holland says that isn’t quite true). We spend four nights sleeping in hammocks and bathing in the river at Holland’s remote — but surprisingly comfortable — jungle camp in the upper reaches of the Mapari watershed. Days are spent on jungle hikes or slowly cruising the river in search of wildlife. Our most astounding finds are a fist-sized Goliath bird-eating spider (world’s largest arachnid), a huge Gladiator tree frog, a pair of tapirs (South America’s largest mammal) swimming across the river right in front of our boat, and a very rare sighting of the world’s most powerful raptor — a mother harpy eagle and her fluffy feathered chick.Heading down the river and back to civilization, I think to myself maybe there are no dinosaurs, but this is close as I’m ever going to come to a real-life Jurassic Park. Suriname: Coat of many culturesFrom Georgetown it’s about a two-hour flight to Paramaribo, Suriname’s bustling little capital. And because we’re landing at the old aerodrome near the city center rather than the new international airport 33 miles (54 kilometers) out of town, clearing customs and immigration takes all of five minutes.I’ve arranged for guide Desmond Budhan to meet me on arrival, but rather than head straight for my hotel overlooking the Paramaribo River, Budhan — who describes himself as a third generation Hindustani-Surinamese — wants to show me straight away how diverse his hometown is. We pay our respects at an ornate Hindu temple, drive down a street with ethnic Chinese shops adorned with songbirds in wooden cages, and wind up at the Javanese Market, where locals clad in traditional Indonesian fashion are haggling over batik fabric or munching barbecued satay slathered in peanut sauce. I’ve gotta keep reminding myself that I’m not in Asia. Historic Fort Zeelandia was the start of Suriname’s capital, Paramaribo.Joe YogerstSurname’s melting pot derives from the Dutch having a global empire comprising an incredible range of religions, languages and ethnic groups, a colonial realm that once included present-day nations such as Indonesia, Sri Lanka and South Africa. Many of those who wound up in Suriname were either forcibly relocated from other parts of the Dutch empire or voluntarily immigrated to this remote South American shore in search of better lives than back home. The Dutch also have a legacy, an inner city filled with 17th and 18th-century colonial buildings that now house museums, restaurants and handicraft shops. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002, the old town revolves around Fort Zeelandia, an amazingly well-preserved Dutch citadel with exhibits on Suriname history, art and ethnic groups. Compact and easy to get around on foot, I spent several days wandering old Paramaribo. Wherever I roamed, the city’s coat of many cultures was on display. At Neveh Shalom Synagogue I walked barefoot across the sandy floor of a shrine built in the 1720s by Sephardim fleeing the Inquisition in Europe. Along a new promenade in the Palm Garden, I met Amerindians selling traditional foods, handicrafts and holistic cosmetics made from ingredients found in the Suriname Amazon.Guyane: Escaping an infamous past Produce sellers create a makeshift market located on the shore in Saint-Laurent du Maroni, Guyane.Jody Amiet/AFP/Getty ImagesThe Suriname-Guyane frontier lies about a two-hour drive east of Paramaribo through a region populated by the Marron people — the descendants of African slaves who escaped the Dutch plantations and fled into the jungle. At the end of the road in Suriname is Albina, a sleepy river port where ferries depart for the French territory on the other side of the water. Climbing into an outboard-powered dugout canoe, I cruised over to Saint-Laurent du Maroni, Guyane’s second largest city.Just like that I’m in the Eurozone — many of the cars are Peugeots and everyone is speaking French. The steeple of a red brick Catholic church rises above the old town. I find a great little Vietnamese restaurant for lunch and contemplate what this laid-back town is most known for: its infamous Camp de la Transportation. France began shipping political prisoners to French Guiana during the revolution of the 1790s. By the late 1800s, the bulk of deportees were men and women found guilty of murder and other serious crimes. However, the prison camps never occupied more than a small portion of the colony. French Guiana also had its sawmills, gold mines and tropical plantations. Camp de la Transportation in Saint-Laurent du Maroni was an infamous prison.Joe YogerstDevil’s Island, the offshore portion of the penal colony, gets all the props. But the sprawling camp in Maroni is where the most devilish deeds took place. It was here that prisoners were inducted into the French penal colony system, where they were often incarcerated for years or even decades, and where many were dispatched via the guillotine. Fluent in French, Dutch, English and Marron patois, Gilbert Samson guided me around the prison, many of the cells still outfitted with rusty iron shackles and the gray coral-stone walls scarred by graffiti made by long-ago inmates. One of the grassy quads is flanked by death row and the spot where the camp guillotine once stood. Samson shows me a solitary confinement cell (No. 47) with the name “Papillon” is scratched in the stone floor. That was the nickname of renowned convict Henri Charrière, sentenced to life and hard labor at the prison colony in the early 1930s when he was convicted of murder. He staged numerous daring escapes — by sea and by jungle — and later described his trials and tribulations in a best-selling book that was made into two movies. Whether or not this particular cell is where the legendary escapee-author was actually jailed is beside the point: the hideous events portrayed in his autobiography really did take place in an around Saint-Laurent du Maroni. Criticized for its extreme brutality and inhumane conditions, the penal colony closed in 1946. Less than two decades later, Guyane became the site of Europe’s version of Cape Canaveral. Nowadays, the Centre Spatial Guyanais in Kourou with its Ariane launches is the territory’s number one tourist attraction. How ironic that those rockets blast off into another largely mysterious place — outer space — every bit as fascinating as the lost world of the three Guianas. Joe Yogerst is a novelist and freelance travel, business and entertainment writer based in California.

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