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grcreativebox

20 best new Asia-Pacific restaurants to try in 2020

January 23, 2020 by grcreativebox Leave a Comment

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(CNN) — It’s hardly surprising that the world’s largest and most populous continent has an astonishing variety of places to eat.From a celebrated American chef cooking creatively in southern China, to world-class sushi in Hong Kong or new wave Filipino dishes in Manila, you’re truly spoiled for choice. So whether you’re a local or a visitor, here are 20 new restaurants bound to whet your appetite when you travel to the Asia-Pacific region in 2020:Mott 32, Marina Bay Sands SingaporeMott 32 has just launched its first Singapore branch. Mott 32 Marina Bay SandsMott 32 is one of Hong Kong’s most renowned contemporary Cantonese restaurants, famous in particular for its apple wood smoked roast Peking duck. They’re set to launch in Singapore on January 24, having already set up shop in other overseas destinations including Vancouver and Las Vegas.The look reflects the elegant ambiance created by interior designer Joyce Wang in Hong Kong, while their mixology program also reflects the original venue. Other signature dishes include barbecue Spanish pork with yellow mountain honey and creative luxe dim sum, such as a pork Siu Mai dumpling with black truffle and soft-boiled quail egg.Mott 32, Marina Bay Sands Singapore, B1-42-44, Galleria Level, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands; +65 6688 8888MONO Hong KongDiners will enjoy MONO’s musical offerings as well as its food.Mitchell GengVenezuelan chef Ricardo Chaneton has one of the most impressive culinary resumes in Hong Kong, having formerly been head chef at Mirazur, the restaurant in the French Riviera voted #1 by World’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2019.At MONO in the heart of Hong Kong’s Central district, he crafts beautiful contemporary French cuisine, all to the soundtrack of his father’s vinyl collection from the 1960s and ’70s. As its name suggests, MONO’s philosophy focuses on one essential ingredient per dish across set lunches and dinner tasting menus.A ceviche of carabinero shrimp, scallops and Brittany oysters may set the tone, before Arctic char with sancho pepper confirms his sublime touch.Koral, The Apurva Kempinski Bali, IndonesiaKoral’s signature dish: Tomatoes Bedugul.Koral/The Apurva Kempinski BaliThere’s definitely an unusual draw at Koral restaurant in Bali’s Apurva Kempinski hotel — it’s the tropical island’s only underwater dining venue.Koral is inspired by the Majapahit empire, which brought prosperity to all of Indonesia for three centuries. Design motifs include black and white tiles that were once seen at the royal court.Unsurprisingly, however, eyes are mostly drawn to the glass-roofed tunnel where tropical fish abound.Although seafood features on the menu, its signature dish is Tomatoes Bedugul, a celebration of the humble fruit served in multiple ways, including as a consommé, with creamy mozzarella and even as a sorbet made with tomato oil.Koral, The Apurva Kempinski Bali, Lot 4, Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Benoa Kec. Kuta Sel., Kabupaten Badung, Bali, Indonesia; +62 361 209 2288Halapua, Kapuhala Samui, ThailandHalapua reimagines classic French dishes with modern techniques.Halapua/Kapuhala SamuiOver on the popular Thai island of Koh Samui, Halapua claims to be the island’s first plant-based fine dining restaurant. Using local produce where possible from the on-site farm, chef Gregory Hill plays with modern techniques to re-imagine classic French dishes like foie gras using mushrooms, walnuts, lentils and rosemary.Other options include gnocchi made with curried pumpkin, purple sweet potato and black garlic or intriguing grilled eggplant with tomato relish, edamame falafel and brie cheese.Hill has worked in Mexico, Indonesia, China and Thailand and has made it his mission to prove that plant-based cuisine is neither tasteless nor boring.Halapua, Kapuhala Samui, 104/86 Moo 3, Bophut; +66 77 950 608 Kinu by Takagi, Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, ThailandMandarin Oriental Bangkok’s new Japanese Kaiseki-style restaurant is helmed by celeb chef Takagi Kazuo.Kinu by Takagi/Mandarin Oriental BangkokMandarin Oriental, Bangkok is one of the Thai capital’s most historic hotels and following its recent extensive renovations, a new Japanese kaiseki-style restaurant Kinu by Takagi is set to tempt diners.It’s the first restaurant in Thailand for two-Michelin-starred chef Takagi Kazuo of Japan’s Kyoto Cuisine Takagi. His specialty is cuisine from the elegant city of Kyoto known as Kyo-ryori, prepared as 10-course seasonal menus where guests are left in his hands.If that sounds substantial, dishes are elegant and light with a typical Japanese aesthetic and a mix of the best ingredients from Japan and Thailand. Dinner may be accompanied by sake and ends with a traditional Japanese tea ceremony.Kinu by Takagi, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok, Thailand; +66 2 659 9000Esterre, Palace Hotel Tokyo, JapanEsterre means “Mother Earth” in France’s Occitan dialect.Esterre at Palace Hotel TokyoLegendary French chef Alain Ducasse has a global portfolio of restaurants, many holding Michelin stars. The latest addition, Esterre, is in Tokyo. It celebrates his modern haute cuisine in an historic hotel that was one of the first to bring French cuisine to the Japanese capital — more than 50 years ago. Esterre translates as Mother Earth in the Occitan dialect of France where chef Ducasse was born and the culinary philosophy emphasizes and celebrates vegetables, grains and fruits — taking them beyond their traditional role as an accompaniment to a dish.You can expect to see ingredients like chickpeas, quinoa, leeks, mushrooms and nuts as the hero, while desserts forgo refined sugar in favor of natural fruit sweetness.Esterre, Palace Hotel Tokyo, 6/F, Palace Hotel Tokyo, 1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, Japan; +81 3 3211 5317Associazione Chianti, Hong KongAssociazione Chianti celebrates the foods and wine of Tuscany.Associazione Chianti Hong KongFlorence is one of the world’s greatest dining cities and Hong Kong diners are now able to channel some of its unique attractions at Associazione Chianti, a Tuscan trattoria that combines butchery and top-notch wine.The menu’s main event is I Tagli del Macellaio or the Butcher’s Cut — prime Black Angus from Idaho that is dry-aged in-house, seasoned and cooked on a Tuscan broiler. The show-stopper amongst them is the substantial Bistecca alla Fiorentina, usually generous enough for four to share.Housemade pastas could include a Chianti beef ragu inspired by Florence’s famed Trattoria Cammillo, while wine lovers can take their pick from what is easily the city’s most extensive collection of Chianti.Char by Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, ThailandUp in northern Thailand, the city of Chiang Mai is renowned for its cuisine and the newly launched Char celebrates local traditions with 70% of the menu being cooked over open flames.The majority of ingredients are locally sourced and join premium cuts cooked over grills or in their fire-pit, where Italian chef Marco Avesani leads the team. Australian lamb rack, organic chicken, Arctic char or Black Angus tomahawk are just some of the options. Their own house sauces include srira-char to complement the grilled meats.Desserts continue the theme with chargrilled pineapples or local twists like fermented sticky rice in a cheesecake. Artisans from around Chiang Mai have crafted the tableware, cutlery and more to complete the sustainable and locally driven feel.The Test Kitchen Manila, The PhilippinesThe guiding principle of The Test Kitchen is that “Time is an ingredient,” too.The Test Kitchen ManilaFilipino-British chef Josh Boutwood is one of Manila’s most dynamic and progressive talents and his latest opening, Test Kitchen, cements his reputation. A mix of informality and sophistication in both design and food, the 42-seat space celebrates what is available in local markets.Techniques frequently include curing, especially in home-made salumi, while fermentation again demonstrates its critical role within Filipino cuisine.Boutwood explains the guiding principle of The Test Kitchen: “Time is an ingredient. We want to make sure that we use techniques that amplify the flavor and not hide it.” That translates to dishes like his “porridge,” which sounds simple but combines barley, abalone, shiso and more with red miso.The Test Kitchen Manila, G/F One Rockwell, Rockwell Drive, Rockwell Center, Makati City, Philippines; +63 977 288 5751 ZA ZA TA Bar and Kitchen, Brisbane, AustraliaZA ZA TA serves up creative dishes reminiscent of Tel Aviv’s vibrant food and bar scene.ZA ZA TA Bar and Kitchen BrisbaneZA ZA TA Bar and Kitchen is a memorably named new destination in Brisbane that serves up dishes from the Middle East and Mediterranean. The quirky setting is reminiscent of a typical local Queenslander house, complete with vintage designs including furniture and art.Executive chef Roy Ner channels the vibrant Tel Aviv food and bar scene and serves up creative dishes like beetroot pastrami and horseradish on smoked rye, fried pretzels with goat’s cheese and homemade lamb bacon.There are also no fewer than six breads on offer every day, with Yemenite butter bread served with a tomato and chili hot sauce called zhug already a favorite with diners.The Chow Kit Kitchen, Kuala LumpurKuala Lumpur’s Chow Kit district is home to local cafes called kopitiams and countless food stalls, a number of which have been run by the same person for more than half a century. It’s also the neighborhood vibe channeled at The Chow Kit Kitchen.Cleverly designed to look and feel like a heritage building, it features black and white photographs of Kuala Lumpur life from over the years. Dishes reflect Malaysian favorites, sometimes with contemporary global spins. These include tomato laksa soup, a beef burger flavored with spices from the country’s famed rendang stew or even a fresh take on that perennial favorite, fish and chips.The Chow Kit Kitchen, 1012, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Chow Kit, 50100 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; +603 2778 66661932, Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor Siem Reap1932 is one of only two restaurants in Cambodia permitted to serve recipes from the former king’s own kitchen. Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor Siem ReapAs the gateway to the breathtaking temple complex at Angkor Wat, Siem Reap has a strong dining scene, elevated even higher by the arrival of 1932.It’s named after the opening year of its home, the Grand Hotel d’ Angkor, and boasts a special claim as one of only two restaurants in Cambodia permitted to serve Royal Khmer cuisine — namely recipes passed by royal decree from the former king’s own kitchen. Diners can therefore enjoy historical favorites like spicy and sour lobster consommé, grilled lamb chops in ginger sauce or pumpkin custard for dessert.1932, Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor Siem Reap, 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Siem Reap, Cambodia; +855 63 963 888John Anthony, JW Marriott Hanoi, VietnamJohn Anthony is named after a Chinese man who spent 35 years in London as an interpreter during the Qing Dynasty.John Anthony/JW Marriott HanoiCantonese cuisine from Hong Kong is again on the menu, this time at the JW Marriott in Hanoi. The design was inspired by classic Chinese touches and reference the life and times of John Anthony, a Chinese native who spent 35 years in London as an interpreter during the Qing Dynasty.The restaurant’s handmade dim sum includes modern twists like veggie and beetroot dumplings, while barbecued meats also feature prominently with char siu beef short rib. Given Cantonese cuisine’s reputation, seafood also features prominently in dishes such as lobster served two ways, namely sashimi style and in the traditional rice porridge dish, congee.John Anthony, JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Đỗ Đức Dục, Mễ Trì, Nam Từ Liêm, Hà Nội, Vietnam; +84 24 3833 5588Shiroux, Halekulani OkinawaDiners at Shiroux can expect innovative French cuisine highlighting local ingredients.Shiroux Halekulani OkinawaHalekulani Okinawa sits on the west coast of Okinawa’s main island in southern Japan and recently welcomed a new restaurant overseen by two-Michelin-starred Hiroyasu Kawate of Florilège in Tokyo.Shiroux means “white” in the local Okinawan language and celebrates the unique sub-tropical terroir with occasionally unfamiliar ingredients like umi budo or “sea grapes,” mozuku seaweed and even sea snake.Innovative French cuisine highlighting local ingredients, impeccable Japanese service and a picturesque setting combine to make for memorable meals.Shiroux, Halekulani Okinawa, 1967-1, Nakama, Onna-son, Kunigami-gun, Okinawa, Japan; +81 98 953 8600Pastore, MelbournePastore’s Italian menu features plenty of dishes cooked by wood fire.Pastore MelbourneMelbourne’s Pastore, from chef-restaurateur Scott Pickett, is named for the Italian word for “shepherd,” thereby explaining the menu of Italian cuisine with Australian references. It also reflects the heritage of the area, which included pasture and orchards.Diners can choose from small plates à la carte or go for full tasting menus, much of which feature cooking fueled by wood fire.Unsurprisingly, handmade pasta is one standout, while the homemade salumi is accompanied by local native ingredients, meaning house-cured duck prosciutto is joined by Davidson plum and a flower called Geraldton wax. Steaks, sausage ragu and ricotta are other more traditional options.Pastore, 1341 Dandenong Rd, Chadstone VIC 3148, Australia; +61 3 9108 3350Ensue, Shenzhen, ChinaThe two-story Ensue combines innovative techniques and local Chinese produce.Ensue ShenzhenAmerican chef Christopher Kostow needs no introduction to global gourmands thanks to his three-Michelin-starred restaurant Meadowood in Napa Valley. His latest venture is on the other side of the world in Shenzhen, China.His new two-story restaurant Ensue looks out over the vibrant sprawling metropolis from atop the Futian Shangri-La hotel. His innovative cuisine champions Chinese produce and techniques in dishes like local turbot steamed with overlord flowers and market green vegetables.More decadent are options such as grilled abalone or quickly smoked Chinese caviar over potato and a crème fraîche custard with fresh peas.Ensue, Floor 40-41, Futian Shangri-La Hotel, Shenzhen, PRCThe Araki, Hong KongGood luck getting a spot. It’s alredy difficult to snag a reservation at The Araki. The ArakiSushi restaurant The Araki, in London’s Mayfair district, hit headlines late last year when it was stripped of its three Michelin stars following the departure of its chef and founder.Sushi master Mitsuhiro Araki opened it in 2014, but in the spring of 2019 he moved to Hong Kong and he’s just opened the doors to The Araki in the city’s busy Tsim Sha Tsui district. It has quickly become one of the hottest culinary tickets in town, even with its eye-watering price tag of 4,000 Hong Kong dollars — that’s US$515 — for the “omakase” set dinner menu. If you manage to snag a seat, for your money you get some of the world’s finest sushi, hand-crafted by the master himself right in front of you.The Araki, G/F, Stable Block, House 1881, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong; +852 3988 0000The Place, The Fullerton Hotel Sydney, AustraliaThe menu features dishes — like this Singapore chicken rice, for example — that reflect The Fullerton brand’s history.The Fullerton Hotel SydneySydney’s dining scene is white-hot and The Place at The Fullerton Hotel Sydney is adding to it in style thanks to chef Gerrit Schellenberg’s menu of multicultural Southeast Asian cuisines alongside modern Australian dishes. It sits within a striking six-story atrium that looks across to Martin Place, a significant and symbolic meeting point in Sydney since the late 19th century. On the menu, expect plates such as pan-seared red emperor fish and braised Riverina wagyu short rib, or for more southeast Asian numbers, reflecting The Fullerton’s storied history, Singaporean chicken rice, seafood laksa, grilled chicken satay and more.The Place, The Fullerton Hotel Sydney, Level 1, No. 1 Martin Place, Sydney, Australia; +61 2 8223 1111 CROM, Taipei, TaiwanItalian chef Christian Milone has brought his wealth of experience to Taiwan’s capital, adding further to the city’s reputation as a top dining destination.The name CROM is inspired by chroma, the Greek word for color. Milone’s signature menu includes creations such as agnolotti del plin, the iconic dish from Piemonte where little pasta parcels are served in a rich cheese and butter sauce. For dessert, maybe a truffle-scented vanilla creme brulee or a delicate pastry mille feuille with Muscat grapes will tempt.CROM, No.116, Section 1, Anhe Rd, Da’an District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106 +886 2 2784 5033Stanley, Brisbane, AustraliaSitting on the banks of the Brisbane River, the Howard Smith Wharves district continues to transform some of the city’s historical buildings into a new dining precinct. One of them, once a former water police station, is now Stanley, a 220-seat Cantonese restaurant.Head chef Louis Tikaram formerly worked at the West Hollywood Asian fusion restaurant EP/LP in Queensland. His dishes include Peking duck pancakes or steamed local scallops with vermicelli and XO sauce. Stanley takes its name from the elegant Hong Kong waterside district and the design touches reflect this legacy with Chinese antiques. Some 400 labels on a wine list ensure that no one goes thirsty.Stanley, 5 Boundary Street, Brisbane, QLD, 4000; +61 (07) 3558 9418

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Cachaça: The story behind Brazil’s favorite spirit

January 23, 2020 by grcreativebox Leave a Comment

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(CNN) — Mexico has tequila. Colombia has aguardiente. Cuba has rum. Brazil’s spirit goes by the name of cachaça, a rum-like liquor steeped in history. Unlike much rum, it is not made from molasses but from fresh sugarcane juice that is fermented and distilled.The spirit was first made by slaves who worked in sugarcane mills in the early 1500s, shortly after the Portuguese introduced cane to the country. Once a staple for low-income workers, the drink initially was known as “pinga” before it became better known by its name cachaça.Now it’s the key ingredient for caipirinhas, and sold abroad for prices comparable to whiskey. “Twenty years ago, we were selling it to people who came to our distillery by horse or carriage,” recalls Pedro Eduardo Valente, who works at the Planalto Farm distillery. It’s has been in his family for generations.”They would carry off five or six jugs. Our cachaça dominated our area. People didn’t want any other brand.”Valente’s ranch is on the outskirts of Brotas, in the state of São Paulo, which is known for its production of cachaça.Although producers of the spirit can be found in most of Brazil now — the last count in 2011 put the number at 40,000 — Pedro is proud of his ranch’s family-owned operation, which he runs with his son Carlos.For the Valente family, it’s all about tradition. Pedro learned the skill of cachaça distilling from his father and has passed it down to Carlos, who in turn hopes his own son will carry on the tradition.A family businessCachaça is a liquor produced from sugarcane in Brazil.ShutterstockLike rum, cachaça has two varieties: unaged, known as “branca” (white) or “prata” (silver), and aged, known as “amarela” (yellow) or “ouro” (gold). The former is usually bottled immediately after distillation and, as a result, tends to be cheaper. The Planalto Farm, however, focuses on the aged variety and has used the same fermentation and distilling process for more than a century. “The tradition of cachaça in the state of São Paulo — I think a lot of it came from our family,” says Carlos. His great-grandfather arrived in Brazil from Italy in 1888, and he was an early producer of cachaça.”We taught a lot of people to make cachaça,” he says. “A lot of people learned from us because at the time there weren’t any distilleries in the region. Ours was the first, we were pioneers.”The cachaça made here is aged from one to five years in large wooden barrels that have been in the family for nine decades.Here’s how to create the perfect caipirinha using cachaca, the Brazilian spirit.The barrels don’t give off any flavor, explains Carlos, because they are so old, and so the spirit is able to rest without its taste being changed. But the barrels do soften the acidity of the cachaça, says Pedro.”For those who like a good cachaça, you have to use aged barrels so they don’t give off the flavor of the wood,” Carlos says.Currently, the Valentes use a homemade bottling machine and make the labels by hand. But they’re bringing the distillery up to date and are waiting on a new labeling machine to arrive. It will print new, redesigned labels that they’ll use to sell their spirit abroad.The label is going to be more modern, says Carlos, “with the history of our cachaça, explaining how it has been made.”Good quality cachaça can be enjoyed neat, but most commonly the spirit is used to make caipirinha cocktails. Sip or mix?Planalto Farm is a family-run business in the state of São Paulo.CNNMade with muddled lime and sugar, crushed ice and cachaça, and served in a short glass, the caipirinha can be found almost all over the world.Carlos, however, likes to stick to tradition. “For the older generations like my father, it’s a sip before lunch, a sip before dinner, to spark your appetite.”No lime, no sugar, not a caipirinha in other words, to savor it. Not to say that it isn’t good in a caipirinha … with our traditional Galician limes, it makes an excellent caipirinha. But the essence of cachaça is to drink it pure.”According to figures from 2015, around 1.8 billion liters were produced in just one year, with 15 million of those exported worldwide. It’s estimated most producers are informal microdistilleries. In 2012, UK drinks group Diageo bought Ypióca, the country’s third largest producer, based in the northeastern state of Ceará, with hopes of taking the spirit worldwide. Exports in 2016 amounted to around 8.7 million liters, compared with Mexico’s 196 million liters of tequila in the same year.Despite Diageo’s ambitions, the drinks export industry remains dominated by beer, and so worldwide consumers may have to wait a little longer for cachaça to become as readily available as tequila.In the meantime, Brazilians will continue to enjoy their country’s staple spirit. It wasn’t always a drink for everyone, but it has gained a lot of popularity in the past 20 years or so, Carlos says.”All Brazilians like cachaça today,” says Carlos. “It has won its place.”

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A pivotal moment for civil rights history in Tallahassee

January 23, 2020 by grcreativebox Leave a Comment

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CNN’s Johnita Due shows us around Tallahassee, Florida, where you can see how the actions of civil rights activists, including Due’s parents, contributed to the national movement.

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Best things to do in Uzbekistan, an unmissable gem of Central Asia

January 23, 2020 by grcreativebox Leave a Comment

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(CNN) — A long time ago, Uzbekistan was the beating heart of the world.It sat at the center of the Silk Road, collecting and dispersing luxuries for trade to lands from China and India to the Mediterranean. More importantly, it sent rills of knowledge flowing through its web of trade, everything from algebra to Arabic to astronomy. However, trade along the Silk Road had long declined when its splintered khanates — Khiva, Samarkand, Bukhara, Kokand, etc. — buckled to the Russians one by one in the 20th century.Fortunately, there’s so much more to the Central Asian country than the Silk Road. Buddhist monks scudded through its southern fringes, carrying the freight of their newfound faith from India to the Far East. Synagogues were nourished here. Today as you travel through Uzbekistan, you will find ripples of all this history and more.Get taken for a ride on the metro Tashkent is marbled with drab, blocky Brutalist Russian architecture that soars towards the heavens. But the city isn’t just vertical; it pushes downwards too. Deep into its bedrock, the Tashkent metro, opened in 1977, is an extraordinary example of Russian invention. Each underground journey is bookended by exquisitely-designed stations — in one, hoary vaulted ceilings are blazoned by baroque chandeliers; in another, the face of Valentina Tereshkova, the first woman in space flames to life; a third is lit with extravagant murals of cotton, Uzbekistan’s cashcrop introduced by the Russians (that is now leeching the lifeblood from its soil). Up until 2018, all photographs were forbidden (thanks to its role as a nuclear bomb shelter and military site), but that rule has happily been upended. Tip: If you don’t have time to ride around the city, take the tube from Mustaqillik Maydoni (Independence Square station) to Pakhtakhor for a glimpse of the system.Up your starch intake with non and plovAcross Uzbek kitchens, the clay or brick tanoor takes pride of place. From within emerge wedges of somsa, lamb’s meat or pumpkin or potato shelved into flaky savory pastry or smokey hunks of meat, stabbed through with a skewer. Non is ubiquitous and it will follow you across every meal in every province of the country; a facsimile of the sun, the bread is seen as life itself.Meher MirzaBut these are all supporting acts when it comes to the flatbread, non. Sloped into a clay or brick tanoor, a disc of non emerges blistered, stretched flat in the center, girdled by a springy hem and impressed with custom designs (courtesy of a stamping tool called a nonpar), each of which is leashed to its own bakery. It is an edible advertisement; sometimes, even a phone number is baked into it. Non is ubiquitous and it will follow you across every meal in every province of the country; a facsimile of the sun, it is seen as life itself.But in fact, it is plov that is Uzbekistan’s national dish. A spice-spare cousin of its south Asian cousin pulao, plov is a fortifying rice dish striped with carrots, onions, berberries (small, tart berries) and cumin crowned with a cockscomb of mutton pieces, but can swell to include quince, beef, peppers, horsemeat, boiled eggs and chickpeas cooked in sheep fat or cottonseed oil. Many ingredients in plov, Uzbekistan’s national dish, can be found in the markets.Meher MirzaPlov can be an everyday dish, but also a dish meant for gorging, for tippling, for ebullience, one often offered up at wedding feasts. Luckily for tourists though, it’s also available everywhere, from the littlest eateries to the fanciest restaurants. Tip: For a proper plunge into plov, try the Central Asian Plov Center in Tashkent, one of Uzbekistan’s biggest cities, where it is the only item on the menu.Swig vodka!The Soviets left Uzbekistan a rather uneven legacy. They carved borders from a disjointed scatter of caravanserai towns. They imprinted Cyrillic on the country. They sucked dry the Aral sea, an environmental catastrophe of incalculable proportions. They attempted to peel away the people’s religious ways (the Russians purportedly stuffed the Fergana Valley’s 15th Kok-Gumbaz mosque with bottles of alcohol). Yet the most insidious was their culinary footprint (i.e., the introduction of vodka to the local table). It’s quite possible the drink has done more to loosen the stays of Uzbekistan’s Islam than anything else. Vodka is the beverage of choice across Uzbekistan and is a part of nearly every meal.Meher MirzaNo matter where in Uzbekistan you travel to, all but the most devout nurse a bottle of okchai (white tea, a euphemism for vodka). Noon or night, the correct way to drink is by flagging each glass with a toast. Stroll through a dazzling NecropolisGales of tourists blow through mausoleum-heavy Samarkand every day: to peer at the Bibi Khanum mosque, to ogle at the exquisite Registan complex. But perhaps the most extraordinary of all is the Shah-i-Zinda, a cobblestoned corridor of cobalt domes, minarets, pillars jostled into a crowded necropolis. Although legend pegs the Shah-i-Zinda as the burial grounds of Prophet Mohammed’s cousin, Qusam ibn Abbas, it’s more likely that the earliest monument cropped up a mere millennium ago. Each mausoleum in Samarkand is disparate, but the whole melds together in a sparkling jigsaw of a jewel box, brocaded with glossy turquoise and aquamarine tiles. Meher MirzaAs the centuries passed, more and more mausoleums were added (the most beautiful being the 14th century resting place of Timur’s niece Shadi Mulk and sister Shirin Bek Ata). The area serves as a pilgrimage for both Samarkand residents and visitors: a living monument to death. Each mausoleum is disparate, but the whole melds together in a sparkling jigsaw of a jewel box, brocaded with glossy turquoise and aquamarine tiles that intensify to purple and midnight blue, as though the sky has lent its blue to the earth. Gawp at The Karakalpakstan State Museum of ArtWhile the Soviet Union juddered under Stalinist rule, an art collector was leading a gentle rebellion under his very nose. In the middle of the scrubby hinterlands of the semi-autonomous republic of Karakalpakstan, Igor Savitsky toiled to amass a grand collection of Soviet (Russian and Uzbek) avant garde paintings that might have been lost forever under the bloody regime. See works by Vladimir Lysenko and Alexander Volkov in The Karakalpakstan State Museum of Art.Meher MirzaIt was not a task for the faint-hearted. Under Stalin’s narrow lens, anything other than social realism was shrugged away as Formalism and liable for imprisonment, while Savitsky’s collection was a shrine to cubism, impressionism and futurism, radical in its rebuke to totalitarianism. In 1966, he opened his museum. Its remoteness both served and saved him, keeping him away from the eye of Stalin’s gibbering generals, while forcing the museum to languish in obscurity up until a few years ago. Today, the work displayed is indeed staggering, including work by Vladimir Lysenko and Alexander Volkov cheek by jowl with that of contemporary local artists, across several floors. Downstairs, a cafe serves decent burgers and crisped fries, a gentle reprieve after an afternoon of heavy viewing.Visit a Silk Road oasis come to lifeOnce even the most buccaneering travelers shuddered at the mention of Khiva; the caravan town had a reputation glutted with mercurial, bloodthirsty khans known to torture and slaughter visitors at whim. Today of course, buses disgorge tourists from around the world into the old town, Ichan Kala, that sits aloof from the rest of the trafficked city. The caravan town of Khiva is now on the tourist trail.Meher MirzaIt is now a UNESCO-stamped repository of Uzbek history brimming with formidable architecture — pale sand-colored tombs singular in their simplicity, sit cheek-by-jowl with madrassehs and museums cloaked in a tumult of teal. The buildings have all been painstakingly restored by the Russians, its cobblestone streets corridored by sanitized stalls selling all manner of touristy bric-a-brac. It resembles, almost, the set of a film. Still, it is all very charming and carnival-esque, and perhaps the only place in Uzbekistan in which you can sink yourself properly into a caravanserai of yore by staying at the Orient Star.Gaze at a 15th century observatoryAt a time when Europe was still moldering in the dark ages, Uzbekistan was soaring into its renaissance. From here came algebra, thanks to Muhammad al-Khwarizmi. Medicine and philosophy came via Avicena in the 10th century. Al-Biruni, a man of astonishing talent, wrote treatises on mathematics, anthropology, astrology and geography in the 11th century. Centuries later, Ulugh Begh, grandson of Timur and sultan of Samarkand, drew on this ferment of knowledge to found a cutting-edge astronomical observatory on top of a hill in Samarkand. Unfortunately, his mind bent little to political affairs — he was murdered in 1449 by his own son, and his observatory later destroyed, but visitors can still see the ribs of a mighty sextant curling down a trench, the largest meridian instrument of its time. (Among other astonishing things, it discovered almost 200 new stars, and predicted, almost to a minute, the exact length of a year.) Close by, a modest museum archives what little knowledge remains of Ulugh Begh and his scientific advances. Buy silk from the last traditional silk-makers in MargilonAlthough camels once lurched across the Silk Road carrying everything from paper, furs, spices, gunpowder, animal skins and gold, there is no single material that paints a picture of the Silk road as succinctly as … well … silk (the Uzbeks muscled out the knowledge of silk-making from the Chinese). Meher MirzaSilk was a booming part of Margilon (and Uzbekistan’s) history, with bolts of shimmering fabric carried to Russia, Persia, Constantinople, India, Syria, Arabia, Italy, even the Horn of Arabia.But when the Soviet Union invaded the country in the 19th century, artisan was usurped by industry, and driven to near extinction. Silk-work was funneled into industries and factories whirred out millions of meters every year.But the old knowledge stuck, and once the Russians were ousted, a few artisans of Margilon traded the factory for their old ways of weaving and patterning (the ikat style is heavily favored, the colors drawn from alum, walnut skin, peels of onion and pomegranate).Today, this is maybe the last center of traditional silk-making in Uzbekistan, and it forms a vital part of the city’s economy and cultural discourse. UNESCO has listed it under its Intangible Cultural Heritage icons. Kumtepa market (5 kilometers from the city center) is thick with bales of silk. Yodgorlik, a silk-making factory is a tremendous tourist attraction, and shops selling silk clothes and skull caps are everywhere. Perhaps this then is the dawn of a new Silk Road.Explore ancient Buddhist monasteries A sun-ripened stupa stands on the banks of the Amu Darya. The stupa is part of a large complex of Buddhist structures in Termez, a city that curls round the south-eastern fringe of Uzbekistan. The sun-ripened stupa is part of a large complex of Buddhist structures in Termez, in Uzbekistan’s southeast.Meher MirzaAnd although the country’s Buddhist history is seen only as a caption within its epic history, Termez is veined with stupas and monasteries scattered pell-mell, a sort of flotsam village stranded in time: Fayaz Tepa, a dun-coloured mud-brick monastery; Kara Tepa, a labyrinth of hollowed-out rooms cloistered into rock. And squatting in a dill field is Zurmala tower, breaded by sand as if the soil was reasserting itself over the structure. All of these were built more than 2,000 years ago in the Kushana period by Buddhist monks drifting through the land, carrying their religion with them from India to the Far East. The stupas are etched with holy scriptures, but not much else remains — all artifacts have been peeled off and deposited into museums across the country. Nevertheless, they are extraordinary, forgotten links to a fascinating age. Retreat to a lost world In the flatlands of the Republic of Karakalpakstan lies a portal to another era, that of the glorious Zoroastrian Persian empire, maybe the world’s first superpower, whose demesne once stretched from the Indus River to the Balkans in Europe. Visit Karakalpakstan and see ancient ruins with storied histories. Meher MirzaKarakalpakstan is crossed with desperate ruins touched with majesty — the roofless honeycomb of a castle, a fire altar breached long ago, a whaleback of a fort rising from the solitude of the desert. The best preserved of all is Chilpik, a Zoroastrian funerary tower in which the dead were lain prone to be consumed by vultures, perhaps the best way for death to collaborate with the ecosystem (the remains were swept into ossuaries). The way to this landscape is via Nukus — the Tashkent hotel offers a very comfortable stay. If, however, you are tight for time, meander through Afrasiyab in Samarkand instead, a sweep of citadel with an excellent museum fringing it; or explore Ming Urik, a sandy relic of a fortress, hidden down a quiet side street in Tashkent.Ogle at the ancient town of BukharaThe entire old town of Bukhara is a UNESCO-recognized masterpiece of medieval Muslim architectureMeher MirzaThere is much to do in Bukhara: ramble around the 10th century tomb of Ismail Samani at Samonids Recreation Park, with its intricately-fretted walls; wander through the Ark, a fifth century fortress whose glowering ramparts are now snarled with traffic; gaze at the sombre Kalyan minaret, spared by Genghiz Khan when he razed the city in 1220; marvel at Chor Minor Madrassah with its nest of domes enameled in sapphire. The entire old town is a UNESCO-recognized masterpiece of medieval Muslim architecture. It is as beautiful as a hallucination.Tip: An excellent place to break your ramble through the old town is the Lyabi-Hauz — travelers and locals alike gather round the lucent waters of this pool for a cup of coffee or an ice cream.Travel tips: Know before you goUzbekistan has several international airports but most of them only cater to flights from Russia. If you’re flying in from anywhere else, your first port of call will, by necessity, be Tashkent. For those who are strapped for time, a day in Tashkent should suffice before pushing off to Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. But if you can slice, say three weeks out of your life, do extend your itinerary to cover Nukus and the Karakalpakstan region, Termez, and Margilon with day trips to Andijon and Kokand. The best way to travel between cities is by train, but if that doesn’t float your boat, at least take the speedy Afrosiyob Express from Tashkent to Samarkand (tea is free!). Spring and fall are the best times to visit.Meher Mirza is an independent writer based in Mumbai, with an interest in exploring the anthropology of Indian food and culture through a postcolonial lens.

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Balearic Islands’ new laws clamp down on booze-fueled partying

January 23, 2020 by grcreativebox Leave a Comment

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(CNN) — They’ve got a reputation for sun-soaking, all-night-partying and all-round-hedonism, but Spain’s Balearic Islands are attempting a rebrand.The regional government has introduced a series of laws that attempt to curb alcohol excess in the tourist hubs of Magaluf and Playa de Palma on the island of Majorca and San Antonio in Ibiza.No longer will party boats promote seafaring intoxication, happy hours are to be prohibited and — once it hits 9:30 p.m. — the shops will cease selling booze altogether until 8 a.m. the next day.Under new regulations, some tourist destinations in the Balearics will no longer be able to offer drinks deals like this.David Ramos/Getty ImagesPub crawls will be barred and the perilous craze known as “balconing” — where people attempt to jump from hotel balconies into swimming pools — will be strictly forbidden.”The Balearic Islands will thus become a leading destination in combating excess tourism,” reads the government press release announcing these changes.Those found flaunting the rules will face fines — in the most serious of instances, such as the sale of alcohol outside of permitted hours — businesses could find themselves paying € 60,000 (over $66,000).The new scheme is due to be in place for at least five years.New directionMagaluf, in Mallorca, is synonymous with partying.Clara Margais/Getty ImagesHit the streets of Magaluf on a summer night and you’ll find hordes of young European tourists, lured by cheap flights and the promise of a pleasure-seeking week of debauchery, spilling out of clubs and bars.The Balearics say they’re teaming the new regulations with newly designed marketing, and a switch towards “sustainable and respectful tourism,” with the aim of forcing “real change in the tourist model of these destinations.”Among European tourists, the Balaerics have a reputation for hedonism.David Ramos/Getty ImagesWith their balmy climate, sandy beaches and hidden pockets of nature, the Balearics offer far more than just popular party spots. Justin Francis, CEO at travel company Responsible Travel, tells CNN Travel that the key to changing the reputation of Majorca and Ibiza is to support new tourism opportunities on the islands.”The authorities in the Balearics now need to work to encourage local, cultural-based as well as nature-centered tourism so as to attract the type of travelers who will better respect the destination. They should look to do this outside of the traditional ‘hotspots’ in particular,” he says.Francis points to other European destinations, including the Spanish city of Barcelona, that have taken moves to transform their fortunes in recent years.Tourist perspectiveBut what do the young tourists who visit these partying hotspots think of the proposed changes?Londoner Kate Chan is unimpressed. The 19-year-old, who previously worked for a travel company that organizes holidays in Ibiza, tells CNN Travel that happy hour culture is crucial to the island’s economy.”We even sold bottomless drink packages before the super clubs. It’s a way for Ibiza’s economy to survive, because the super clubs like Amnesia cost around €30 for a double spirit and mixer,” she says. It’s “completely off-putting if there aren’t pre-party deals in place,” adds Chan.”Who goes to Ibiza for a civilized time anyway?”Chan agrees that more stringent alcohol rules could cut down on some of issues in Ibiza — such as “balconing,” or drunken fights — but doesn’t think the island can rebrand over night.Ibiza hosts DJs from across the world, attracting music fans.David Ramos/Getty ImagesJack Painter, 24, is a British house music fan who has visited Ibiza on several occasions. He tells CNN Travel he’s in favor of the new regulations.”Ibiza is home to some of the biggest and most prestigious dance music venues in the world, and hosts important residencies from the most influential artists in the world of electronic music,” says Painter. “This attracts real music fans looking for an experience and the chance to enjoy sets by their favorite producers.”Generally speaking, these tourists respect the island, Painter says. They’re not just there to get drunk.”What lets us and the island down are the sleazy, cheap boozing establishments in San Antonio’s west end. These establishments are aimed at nothing more than getting holidaymakers as drunk as possible on ridiculously cheap booze.””And [they] attract the sort of loutish, anti-social behavior that British tourists are known for and that understandably creates huge friction with the local people.”Partying prospectsBusinesses could find themselve fined € 60,000 (over $66,000) if they flaunt the new rules.Clara Margais/Getty ImagesMeanwhile fellow Brit James Sawyer, 23, says he can see both sides of the argument.”I’ve been to Majorca on family holidays and to the strip to party. I had completely different experiences and both were great for different reasons,” he says.”The strip transports a night out in Leeds [a university city in the north of England] to a nicer climate, virtually everyone’s English and it’s essentially Neverland. It was fun aged 16 to 18, but I’d never go back for a rerun of the latter holiday.”That said, Sawyer says he’d consider going to Ibiza to party, but these new rules make him hesitate.”I’m less likely to go with these restrictions,” he says.Still, he’s pragmatic about his partying prospects: “There’s going to be somewhere else popping up that serves the same purpose,” says Sawyer.”It is sad that the restrictions might prevent someone else having that experience as a teenager but I understand the islands are much more than pre-adult drunken experiences.”

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Shakespeare fans can stay in Juliet-inspired house this Valentine’s Day

January 22, 2020 by grcreativebox Leave a Comment

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Airbnb announced Tuesday that one couple will be granted the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to stay in the historic building that has become symbolic of the iconic balcony from “Romeo and Juliet.”The Casa di Giulietta has become a magnet for lovers and fans of the play — despite Shakespeare never actually specifying the exact location of Juliet’s home.In Shakespeare’s 16th-century play, set in the Italian city of Verona, Romeo and Juliet profess their love for each other at the balcony.The room features the original bed from the 1960s film adaptation.AirbnbEvery year, thousands of letters arrive at Casa di Giulietta, keeping the nonprofit Juliet Club busy writing replies.Now, Airbnb is offering a modern-day Romeo and Juliet the chance to stay overnight in the historic building, which operates as a museum.The couple will be the first to stay in Juliet’s room since 1930, Airbnb said in a statement.The medieval-themed bedroom will also feature the “Letto di Giulietta” — the original bed that featured in Franco Zeffirelli’s 1968 adaptation of Shakespeare’s “Romeo and Juliet,” Airbnb said.”This stay will give one couple the unique chance to celebrate their love in what is possibly the most romantic home in the history of literature,” said Giacomo Trovato, Airbnb’s general manager for Italy. The winning couple will also have a special meal cooked for them in the house’s grand dining room.AirbnbCouples wishing to take advantage of this unique offer will have to write a letter detailing their own love story and explain why they would be the perfect guests for the romantic getaway.In addition to spending the night in Juliet’s “bedroom,” the pair who wins the competition will be given a Romeo and Juliet inspired tour of Verona and a private tour of the Casa di Giulietta. They will read and reply to some of the most recent letters sent to “Juliet” and have a candlelit meal prepared by Michelin chef Giancarlo Perbellini.

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